So, what’s the thought here, wait for the fuses to arrive and then install new fuse + test with a connected battery? Safe enough to try with a connected battery to see its getting current? Anything else I should or could test for in the meantime, I’m kinda grasping at straws right now since nothing seems evident.
I would try connect battery and see if boots and charge normal.(with solder joint/bypass fuse).If any abnormal current draw, quickly disconnect battery.
Well 1 step forward, two steps back looks like.
Good news: I have normal current draw and apparent charging. Switch boots and goes up to about .67 A. Stays steady at 15v, fan comes on.
Bad news: Now i have no backlight / display. Switch also does not seem to want to boot from power button, however plugging in via USB C will boot the console. I can hear the controller inputs / screen taps so i know I am at least getting to a place where i can hear things and have the system accept user input.
I plugged in one of my other boards that I know will output to a display and I verified that the screen / backlight / ribbon cables on my tester are still functional. I can boot this board via the power button and battery without having to plug in the USB C cable, so i know the setup is functioning just fine.
reseat the ribbon and give some pressure when close the flip lock. This kind of MOLEX flip lock is so fragile and leading bad connection specially on switch lite
Yeah, ive reseated the connection a dozen times with no change. The screen is working as shining a light through the plastic I can see the display, looks like the backlight is just not getting power now.
Reseated the connector, put pressure on connector with my finger while it was turned out, reseated connector down by battery, put pressure on that as well while turned on, nothing brings the backlight back. Backlight is definitely working too as other board get it to light up no problem.
Also, not sure if related, but it still won’t turn on via the power button. I have to plug into USB to get it to boot.
actually, none of the buttons on the ribbon cable are working. Booting to home screen nothing works. Both vol up and down do not bring up the vol slider and the power button iwont bring up the menu or put the switch into sleep mode.
measure continuity from daughter board connector to mainboard one, Or measure the diode reading on backlight&powe rbutton connectorwhen battery disconnected.
OH
MY
GOD
I now have backlight, working power flex cable, AND charging. I’m guessing the little white piece that clamps down on that FPC connector must have warped somehow. I wasn’t seeing continuity from daughter board to the mainboard at the connector, but it was there on the actual ribbon. So with a little finesse i put a little extra pressure on the ribbon and bingo, we are back in business again.
Now I am left wondering whether I should replace this connector entirely, or if I should just reinstall in the final resting place, retest, and then just hope for the best. Looks like these connectors are about 18$ a piece for me (which is odd because the LCD connectors are just 1$ or so), and I know these things can be a gigantic pain to solder on.
Man, oh man though I can not say THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU enough @jkyoho . I’ve learned so much throughout this, so its been both a pleasure and a nightmare to go through it. However, when you end up with a working device it is all worth it no matter what. If i had some way to buy you a coffee or beer, I would.
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It should not be more than 5$ unless the reseller hi-jack your wallet.
I would just leave it as is while its working.