I think I killed it. Short on LCD connector, no longer boots

Quick update, I resoldered the pins on the SDcard, and now that is detected in hekate, as such I have started taking backups (by connecting the emmc once in RCM). I still cannot get it to RCM while emmc is connected, maybe the joycon rail has issues… I will look into that later.

It’s possible, though it could also be the issue mentioned previous or possibly the power/vol flex has dodgy buttons, had several where the domes tarnish and the kapton needs peeled back and domes polished.

Or if you have a known good flex, might be worth using that to check and see

I would avoid constantly hot plugging the EMMC, doing so can cause damage/corruption in and of itself

Yes, I am aware hot plugging is not a good idea in general, I just wanted to get the backup out of it sooner rather than later! Once I have it done, I will switch over to a different shell that has different rails / buttons and see if that helps.

Ok, so I did managed to get a backup of Boot0/1 and the full backup. Though that emmc has now given up. When originally repairing it there were some dodgy pads, and I think their solder balls wondered off to make a short.

So, the version of hetake I was using used the vol and power buttons to navigate, so pretty sure that was fine.

I guess the first thing to do now, is get an emmc working. While I have the backups, I DONT have the keys. When I try to restore that backup onto a different emmc it tells me that the backups are in the wrong folder. I could presumably just rename the folder but I worry that it would cause issues.
Do I need to get the original emmc working again (if even possible), or can I restore from a backup without the keys?

Oh, something else I noticed, that prevented me from getting into some of the other versions of hetake. Right now, it seems to be detecting the battery as being empty when in fact it is full. version 5.0.0 lets me in, but shows 0.0%, another version I tried just showed me a red battery icon.

I would grab the keys and keep them together with your backups on PC, in order to rebuild the FW on PC you’ll need these. you can use Biskeydump or lockpickRCM

Right, Hekate names the folders with EMMC specific ID so you don’t incorrectly restore the wrong backup, you just copy the backed files to the restore folder of the “new” EMMC ID folder. Or alternatively you can mount the EMMC over USB via USB tools in Hekate, then use winhex (or other) to write the entire rawnand image backup to the new EMMC module.

Nope, you can use any EMMC module, provided it’s got the same data on it as the original EMMC then it will all work as normal

Yes, the point of the keys is to decrypt the encrypted partitions on the EMMC, you need the keys when recreating the FW/partitions on PC using ChoiDujour/emmchaccgen

provided it’s not a battery connector issue then probably fuel gauage is bad or possibly BQ IC, what does it say in the fuel gauge page? can you post a photo?

Awesome, that’s what I was hoping, I figured I would need the emmc working to get the keys, is that not the case? Either way I will get the folders renamed for the new emmc and restore over the top.

I will see what info I can find about the fuel gauge when I next boot into it.

btw, primary issue at this point might be the fuel gauge or slim chance the BQ IC as an issue with these two might prevent boot.

I mean I’d still transfer the data over to another known good EMMC module after anyway.

You would, or at least partially working to get the keys, if your able to read/write to it - it’s semi working at the least, so provided that particular region wasn’t corrupt then all keys should be obtainable.

Annoyingly, a this point the old emmc was not readable, there was a direct short under it that would shut the console off when connected. Can I get the keys from the new emmc once I have restored it instead?

While the backup is restoring to new emmc, here is the battery info.

Ah, I see, glad you got the backup in time

Yeah, provided it’s not corrupt in the required area/s

Think you have a bad fuel gauge here, as this is typical nonsense reported by a bad one.

Just in case though, charge the battery externally and see if Hekate reports the correct “voltage now” and the mAh reads approx 4000mah (or 1000 uncalibrated which is fine)

Also check the battery connector on the board itself. If the values in Hekate remain the same or some other nonsense you’ll have to swap it out.

At this point don’t think it’s worth getting the keys or rebuilding the FW, I expect the data transfered over to the new module will likely be fine, think your main problem at this point is the fuel gauge

Yeah, timing was everything on the backup itself!
I have already fully charged the battery up to 4.2v. I think I still have some fuel gauges, so will head there next!

Looked at the FG, and yup, nice crack on one of the bottom corners. I swapped it out, but its still not happy. Ran out of time for lunch though, so will double check it later on.

Ok, so I swapped out the fuel gauge, and it now isn’t as broken as it was. It was reporting 0%, so I charged it overnight with external charging board. My meter shows 4.2v on the battery now. Battery stats in Hetake shows about 45% (thinks its at 3.8v or so). Still not able to boot with new emmc connected though.

Take it it’s the same symptoms, no boot logos etc?

can you post a photo of the fuses section in Hekate and if you load you backup up in NXNandManager on PC and click the prodiinfo partition (ensure you’ve aded the BIS keys) let me know the reported FW version here?

Just want to check the fuse count and FW is a match.

Failing that, I’d go through the whole FW rebuild process using EMMCHaccGen and see if anything changes

Firmware on the emmc is 10.1.0, fuse count is 13 / 64.

annnnd I’m getting crap from the fuel gauge again…

Hmm, assuming you haven’t got unlucky with another duff fuel gauge, maybe change the BQ IC in case it’s screwing up the comms somehow, and/or check the surrounding components at the fuel gauge and compare measurments to a known good, also check none of the resistors are open and your getting continuity from the battery connector to the corresponding destination at the fuel gauge.

Though this issue may track back to USB/M92 issues you were seeing earlier.

Pretty sure that’s fine, though there is no details regarding that specific FW version on the Git burnt fuse chart.

Ahh damnit. So, after having gibberish from the FG, I tried it with another battery where it seemed to be making more sense, but was still showing 0%. It was very low, so I again charged externally up to 4.1v, but it still only showed 1%.

So, I have now swapped it out for my last remaining FG… back to gibberish. I have another set of chips on the way which will be here in a week or so. In the mean time I guess I will double check for shorts / off readings in the area.

Result! My new fuel gauges arrived the other day so I fitted one this morning and it gives good readings in hekate, and more to the point the console will now boot again!
Thanks so much for all the help! Somewhat amazed we got this one happy again… still need to find a working gamecard board, and the right rail seems… temperamental, but that’s all much easier to investigate :slight_smile: