0.42, no screen, no shorts

I have a switch with nothing on screen, charging at 0.42 and not fast charge but i don’t find any shorts or so. I also checked with a new bought battery
i hope someone can help :slight_smile:

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Have you checked or replaced the video chip on the back of the board. Also you’ll want to check the filters behind the USB C port on the back of the board as well.


Thanks for your help, but all work fine xd It was AutoRCM, guys always check it out first with rcm driver installed on the pc and RCMGui. :smile:


I have a similar situation and I am totally stumped. The Nintendo Switch will slow-charge the battery just fine but will not power on, no fan spin, no display, no charge icon - nothing.

Here are the facts:

-It will slow charge only - draws .46A all night long until
battery is fully charged, and then goes to 0A gradually as the battery reaches full charge; there
has been no sign of fast charge

-There are no shorts anywhere on the board - all capacitors test
good, and the only heat on a thermal camera while it is
charging is coming from the GPU.

-I replaced the M92T36 chip with no change in behavior - all
output LDO voltages test good according to datasheet, and again no problems with capacitors

-If I apply 4.0V directly to the battery connector (battery
removed), or unplug the battery while charge cable plugged in, it draws .21A steadily with no boot up

-I have never seen an image or charge icon on the display during
any tests

-There is no sign of water damage or burned chips

-I looked at the video chip and it does not have a burn mark, and
that capacitor is also not shorted

-I downloaded TegraRCMGui, installed the driver, and the device is not detected on my Windows 10 PC

-When plugging into my PC with charge cable, I get a “USB Device Not Recognized”, but I get a connect and disconnect response when I cycle the power on the switch

-This device has had payloads injected into it; I believe it may be bricked or stuck in AutoRCM

-I have not changed the battery charge IC, nor do I have a “known good battery” to try using

I do not know much about Nintendo Switches or how they are hacked, but I am very experienced at electronics repair. I need some help/advice on what to do next or if this is a lost cause.


@ Denny,

I’ve been working some more on my x3 0.42A machines and I’ve discovered I made a schoolboy error. One of them was stuck in AutoRCM mode and I clearly hadn’t tested. No luck with the other 2.

What’s interesting was this was one of the three pin 17 low units, which suggests this pin may only be low early in the boot cycle and not a sign of much else. I will do some testing now this one has come back to life.

In your case you’re getting a USB Device Not Recognised which shows Windows is seeing something. Now perhaps you’ve got a damaged USB-C connector or the D+/D- lines have continuity issues. Worth tracing them through the filters on the board from the external connector. You can see the pair quite clearly heading up towards the M92 chip before going into vias.

Sounds promising to me…

OK. Confirmed that Pin 17 starts off low, but once boot goes past the Nintendo logo, it goes high. Seems as if ALERT is triggered for the early stages of the boot cycle.