Just a heads up that the 8316 IC does not get told to enable either the +5 output or the inverted output (-5) until the SoC has cleared the initial boot step.
As such, I think you likely have an issue elsewhere and the 8316 (5V rails in question?) may be a red herring.
You can verify this by checking if the output enables are high (1V8) if they’re high but you don’t have the 5V outputs then the IC is to blame, if the enables are low then the issue lies elswhere.
VBUS is this what is supplied by the usb-c input. The original power supply delievers 15V and I mostly test with 5V. So it is fine.
The 785 mV at your first testpoint beneath the diode, is telling me that this line is not shorted. And like Severence said the problem might be somewhere else.
What ampere readings can you see if you plug the usb c cable and start, without the battery?
Hello,
On red mark, i have 4.20V. So if i’m right, 8316 isn’t to blame ?
Thanks 
Hello,
If i don’t plug the battery, i have 15V and 0.053A. With battery 14.92V and 0.492A.
Thank you
So that’s your SYS rail, which provides VIN to the 8316 IC.
If you look at the photo above, you can see where I have labelled Vout-1 and Vout-2, both represent the outputs produced by the 8316 IC, you can try measuring the voltage at these points, I expect you’ll have 0V like elsewhere,
you’d then check to see if the SoC is telling the 8316 to turn on these outputs by checking the voltage at the enable lines which can be seen in the photo.
Ok,
So i check the lines as you tell me but it’s not similar than my motherboard. I think i find the “test” point but still 0v …
Thanks
Hello,
Have you an idea for my motherboard please? I read on another website that could be the Nvidia chipset directly and it doesn’t have solution for that.
What do you think about that?
Thank you very much.
Most of the time issues such as this revolve around the common failure ICs (M92, BQ, P13)
I would be checking your soldering on all these ICs, as I often see boards where people have attempted replacements on these ICs and have inadvertantly bridged pads together or pads are open not connected to the board. If your not sure, you could remove the M92 IC as the console will oridinarily still boot without it, battery only.
I believe you can do the same thing with the P13 IC and the console will still boot without it.
Failing that, if you suspect the SoC then you can follow along with this thread here,
and let me know the resistance to ground on the main rails on the inductors surrounding the PMIC.
Hello,
I’ve had enough of that damn Switch…
So I unsoldered the M93, nothing on the battery display, I removed the P13, no better. I reassembled everything neatly, no short circuits on the outgoing tracks and still nothing in the end.
I will therefore declare this console definitively HS. I wasted a lot of your time and I don’t think it makes sense to keep looking.
I suddenly bought another used one, broken down of course, which I will try to repair. It works perfectly but the screen turns off after 5-10 minutes without explanation. What’s crazy is that the console works, we have the noises, the touchscreen works but no longer the image. If I reboot the Switch, everything comes back for 5-10 minutes. Maybe I will open a new topic suddenly?
Thanks again for everything, it’s really nice to find such community support!
Not at all, we are all learning 
who knows you might come back to this one later with a fresh set of eyes and figure it out, if it’s not one of the three common failure modes on the ICs I mentioned the approx 0.4A braindead can be quite a few more things which is a tough thing to narrow down remotely, it surely helps if the console is unpatched.
This sounds to me like it’s backlight driver related or backlight ribbon damage, one of the two
I have a video of this new unit but i can’t post here cause restrictions…
Maybe it’s better if i open a new thread ?
I change the LCD two times without more success. It’s really strange because sometimes, the image come back for few seconds or minutes.
Do you think i need to change the LCD driver or the LCD is bad quality ? It come from the same reseller…
Thank you :))
Hello,
For the first unit, i close the case because i don’t find the solution. Maye the SoC is faulty and it’s under my skills.
The second unit, that was just the LCD… I try with an original and all is fine
Thank you all for your support.
I’ll open a new thread for an old “case” soon. Thank you so much and have a good day.
Jonathan
