DC-IN rail shorted to ground

Hi guys. I really need your help. I’m trying to fix my little sister’s nintendo switch but I’ve already done more damage than good. The symptoms that I encountered are the following:

-Doesn’t power on (solved with and external tp4056 battery charge and it does power on and work normally)
-Doesn’t charge

So, if i plug in Nintendo’s official charger and measure the voltage at the fuse (which is gone by the way as I destroyed one side trying to remove it using hot air so I need someone to tell me where I can buy a new one) I get absolutely nothing. If I plug a normal 5v charger from a mobile phone (I need to clarify that the charger cable I’m using is a micro usb with a type c adapter ad the end) I get from 0v to 5v and it goes up and down. Since I’ve read a ton of topics on this forum I’ve read suggestions about removing the fuse and checking again to make sure it’s not the usb c that has shorted pins (very unlikely since I checked it inside under the microscope and it looks perfect) and as it turned out after removing the fuse it wasn’t the usb c port that is shorting to ground but something on the side of the M92T36 chip, the only shorted cap that I found around the chip was the smallest one (I’ll try to include a picture) (There is also a resistor missing on the top left but I have it I just need to solder it back on)

So what I did is I removed the little cap (which I lost so I need a place where to buy a new one) but the rail going into the chip was still shorted, I removed the M92 the but no luck still shorted to ground again. So It’s something between the chip and the fuse I guess. I’ve also found around the MAX77812EWB (I’ll post a pict for this one as well)

So, basically the switch works ( or was working until I put my hands on it) with a charged battery but it doesn’t want to take a charge, plugging the cable with an ammeter shows absolutely nothing (it’s off basically) or it flickers sometimes. The motherboard model is HAD-CPU-01. And as a last thing I also need someone to tell me where I can buy this coaxial connector as I bent it and the cable isn’t going in anymore.

I forgot to mention that i did take a measurement of the cap before losing it and it was reading a capacitance of 11.15 nF according to my multimeter (I have a chinese one , an ANENG Q1, so I don’t know how accurate it is)

Don’t work on the max77812 area since you said it was turning on with charged battery. Check the MOSFET area between m92t36 and fuse if any short or anything jam

Hi jkyoho I’m not sure what you mean when you say “anything jam”, but before reading your reply I went ahead and removed the big cap above the usb c port (I will include a pic) since it didn’t look good to me colorwise and the short is gone!

Now plugging in the same mobile phone charger I get a constant 5v up to the m92t36 pad which was shorted to ground before (I bridged the fuse pads with a blob of solder to take that measurement ). I also measured the removed cap in continuity/diode mode (my multimeter has both of them combined into 1 function) and it beeps so it means it’sbad right? And it was shorting the dc-in rail to ground on its other side right? (I’m asking because I’m still learning all this stuff). Also measured its capacitance and got 0 nF basically. So I guess this cap was causing the problem. Now I need serious help to figure out the exact components I need among those I lost / damaged. I’ve been looking for them on mouser site. I’ve looked for the cap I lost (since I had measured its capacitance) but even with that I get multiple results (which all look almost the same) and I don’t know which one I need to order. I’ve also been look for the coaxial jack in connector on the site, but same thing, I get multiple results and I don’t know which one to buy.

Forgot to mention that I also need the values of the big cap I removed (a direct link to the mouser page would be great if anyone knows)

The big cap next to mosfet ,the bad one you have,I have 11uF measure off the circuit from my donor board. So should be a 10uF_20v_0805
small cap that goes to pin9 m92t36 should be a 10nF I remember. and top right resistor goes to pin31 of m92t is 100k ohm

Fuse is available on digikey: xhttps://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bel-fuse-inc/0aba-3500-tn/11658201

WiFi connector is a U.Fl smt connector. Something like this: xhttps://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/hirose-electric-co-ltd/U-FL-R-SMT-10/513011

not sure if the above is a suitable replacement though, but you should be able to source one stateside. If not they are readily available from aliexpress.

Hello again Jkyoho. Can you tell (or anyone else reading) the value of these capacitors as well please? I need to order them since I destroyed them while soldering back the m92. Thanks!

PIC CREDITS to @Calvin

thank you jkyoho but I see that the values of 2 caps I need is missing in this picture, there’s only one (c0402_1uF).

Thank you very much!