Hi all, i was hoping if someone can help me fix my switch. I am really not an expert in microsoldering just an enthusiast on doing new things and experimenting.
So I failed on modding my 2 yr old Switch oled, i used the kamikaze method from stethix youtube video and so far i think i managed to drill the board clean enough without hitting outside the area of the dat0.
My modchip installation took around 15hrs and i had a hard time soldering the 3.3v point on the capacitor since my low quality soldering iron is not cooperating, because of that there was a drop of solder blob near that capacitor which bridged to another capacitor’s ground so i decided to remove it. I managed to remove the blob but left the area a mess and 2 ic’s and 1 capacitor in bad condition (please see attached picture)
so after completing soldering all of the points, my readings from the multimeter is slightly off from the recommended values.
My readings on the points on diode mode was:
A=0.48
B=OL
C=0.49
D=0.51
3.3v= 0.55
on my own thinking, since the value was just a little off from the recommended values of 0.5-0.9 i still decided to turn on my console. so upon connecting the battery and pressed the power on button the mod chip had a blue light then 2? or 3? double yellow light really not sure and then completely nothing. and one stupid thing i did is that i diode mode test for short to ground of all the points while the battery was still connected and i noticed a tiny smoke coming from the MAX77801 EWP i don’t know if it was fried because of the mess i made while soldering the 3.3v cap or maybe because of the short to ground test while the battery was connected and powered on.
Now i disassembled everything again and found some short to ground on the capacitors ofn MAX77182 EWB & MAX77620H EWJ (please refer to the attached pictures)
Put your meter in resistance and measure the resistance to ground on this point.
max77801 needs replaced for sure, the die is scrap. The inductor below will need replaced too (check datasheet for IC to find)
This is all meaningless unfortunately, diode mode readings when looking for a fault condition are of no use (outside of a quick and dirty and very rough pass/fail) as your could get a “good” reading on a rail with a high short (for example) Instead switch your meter to ohms and measure resistance instead
Same as above, switch to resistance (probably not shorted)
I’d just pull the dodgy IC and inductor, clean up the area with wick (be careful here as you could wind up making the situation much worse. If in doubt have someone else do it or get better equipment and practice on some scrap boards before proceding). Once cleaned up, take the measurments on the board again and note the values, ensure nothing is shorted to ground which ought not to be. After, install the new IC, incductor (buy from mouser if possible), and with the modchip not present, provided the readings are all good following rework then connect battery and prompt to boot and check the switch still boots stock standard. After all that you can then decide if your want to proceed with the modchip again. Hope that helps.
I ordered the max77801 IC, and a 4.7k resistor for the"A" point (just for backup). Now for the inductor I can’t find any exact model as listed on the max77801 datasheet. it is available on mouser but unfortunately, i dont live in the US so it’s really not an option for me.
So 570 ohms? Switch your meter to the next range down from 2K and see what it says. I don’t have an OLED handy to compare but seems a bit low to me… though maybe OLED’s use dedicated pull up/down resistors on the dat lines and this would explain it, but wouldn’t worry about it for the time being until the other issues are resolved.
So 570 ohms? Switch your meter to the next range down from 2K and see what it says. I don’t have an OLED handy to compare but seems a bit low to me… though maybe OLED’s use dedicated pull up/down resistors on the dat lines and this would explain it, but wouldn’t worry about it for the time being until the other issues are resolved.
I see. I will replace the inductor and 77801ic first then. ETA is around sept 7. will come back here for an update.
