Unfortunately, I don’t have a reading on the resistor right now; it’s damaged. I’ll recover it from the donor.
Question: With these two UART and blod 2 sec errors, is it normal that I’m not measuring 1.35V at the RAM test points? I noticed with the thermal camera that they didn’t heat up during power-up and the 1.35V is missing. I don’t know if it doesn’t have time to generate itself.
Resistance to ground is 0.27 on the test points
@Calvin you’re not ready to see what I missed!!!
I ask myself this question: why?
In all these years, I’ve never had to remove this component.
I noticed the resistance on the wrong pad…but I missed this one which was very obvious.
Do you have any references to rule out a short on the APU/RAM? This way I can avoid wasting time on it.
Seems to be a big rabbit hole.
There are too many different issues. HDMI power issues, bad power flex cable, missing cap at one GFX VRM,… maybe there is more to discover. 
I don’t think it is worth the time to figure all issues out.
Yes, I agree.
I’ll just put the cap back on the VRM, but then if it doesn’t start, it will become a donor.
But in your experience… why is that capacitor removed? There are no traces of other work.
I don’t know. The cap is one of eight caps (1x 220µF, 5x 10µF, 2x 0.1µF) for each VRM to smooth the 12V input.
If a VRM would short the line, I would check the components around the VRM chip, than ground the output of the VRMs and see which VRM is getting hot
Maybe the whole board was a donor before.
Boardview gives me a C7315 16V 220uf. Can I replace it with this one? There’s no short on the RAM/APU line. I don’t understand the point of removing it.
Yes, the 220µF 16V 20%.
If you buy new ones, check the right cap height. CLA is the series marking.
