Edm 010 - c0810303 + 80810001

[Repairman]

Another board, another problem.
Beep no light
They reworked the HDMI port.
There’s damage in the area shown in the photo.
I removed the solder and the mask appears to be damaged (perhaps a spot with no traces?)

The port pins don’t appear to be shorted.
The capacitor is damaged but it reads voltage.

HDMI Pin 13 measures 2.91V, as does the capacitor underneath.

What values ​​should the diode and capacitors have?

Missing:
5V POWER Photo 1
Other all good

The readings on the Panasonic STBY and PWR One are all correct (I can’t read them completely because the board immediately collapses, but they are all present)

[Repairman]

It’s a shitty job clearly and looking closer it looks like a bridge between 15 and 16

[Repairman]

UPDATE:

Removed HDMI port and cleaned the bridges.
The boot sequence is now correct.
UART shows no errors in standby, but always the same ones in power on.
5V Power on is always missing.

[Repairman]

UPDATE 2
I checked all the measurements again and 3.3 pwr is also missing on the 15JL

[Calvin]

What are the round areas in your image?

[Calvin]

The both 3.3V left down pins at the 5V and 1.8V bug chips are the enable lines. I would check at the HDMI chip side the other bug converters.

[Repairman]

Tin balls. I’ve never seen anything like them.
I removed them, and the points remained slightly tinned.

[Repairman]

HDMI chip I have all the voltages except the one circled which, if I’m not mistaken, is the same line as the pin 3 15JL

[Calvin]

Yes, it is the same line.

If the pwr lines are not shorted, I would inject 3.3V at each enable line for all four bug chips including the “RJ=” ic and check if each output is present. If all power lines are present, I would replace the HDMI chip.

[Repairman]

enable goes/comes from the soutbrige?

Should I try injecting 3.3V on J15L together with Power on 5V or is it not necessary?

Should I try injecting 3.3V on J15L together with Stby 5V PIN 1 or is it not necessary?

I found the LED flat damaged so I think the diagnosis is blod 2 sec. the fan spins and UART does not show errors on Standby but only on Power on.

[Calvin]

Yes the southbridge is enabling at power on each bug chip for the power lines at the HDMI ciruit.

A bad/shorted LED flex cable can damage the southbridge and could result in not working propperly, like not enabling lines.

With this knowledge, I would change the southbridge and see if this solves the issue.

[Repairman]

I did an interesting test before removing the SB.
I injected 3.3V into pin 3 Enable, and PIN 6 shows 5.15V.
I tried turning it on…nothing…blod for 1 second.
In theory, it should turn on…R7 SB pad it only goes to that IC

Maybe I should investigate further?
Can the diode/retimer pull the line down?

[Repairman]

but that resistor…oh my god..

[Calvin]

Nice find.
I hope the 22 Ohm resistor in the correct position fixes your issue with the HDMI ciruit.

[Repairman]

damaged right? I guess without it I can’t verify
it was on pin 35…if I’m not mistaken it concerns the 5V

[Calvin]

The resistor is on the false pad. It belongs one more up.
You can check the resisor for correct value (22 Ohm)

[Repairman]

Sorry, the photo didn’t upload.
It was placed on the test pad, and I removed it, but it seems damaged.
Do you think I might have knocked the line down? There’s another resistor and a diode underneath.
Pin 35 Panasonic = HDP = Pin 19 HDMI Port

[Calvin]

Looks beaten up. The question is, does it have still a reading, which would pull the HPD down like it was soldered on the false pads.

[Repairman]

yes before removing it I checked and it had an ohm reading I don’t remember the value.

I was checking the line and it was placed on the HDP which also includes a diode placed on the +5V HDMI line. Correct me if I’m wrong.

I need to order a replacement parg because it looks in bad condition.

[Calvin]

If there is still 22 Ohm at the resistor you desolder, I would put it back in the correct position and check if your start issue is solved. There seems to be on both ends of the resistor enough material to connect it to the pads.

The other resistor is a 6.8k Ohm and the diode is a Zener diode. As long the line is not shorted to ground, I would expect for the first try with the 22 Ohm resistor soldered back in right place, that the function should be back.

You can check at the HDMI port at pin 19 for correct readings. (6.8k Ohm/700mV)