Faulty switch charging but not powering on

Hi very new to this and have a faulty Nintendo switch! Charging and 15v and 0.42A after a Quick Look there are a few shorts across these caps any advice would be much appreciated


Also I have removed the p13usb chip and the short is still there on the cap circled in red

I would check the EN ic and around it for shorts.

Hi Calvin
I have shorts on these caps is it worth taking the p13 back off and rechecking?

I would check if one of the both caps near the EN ic is the cause of the short. If not I would remove the EN ic and check again. Alternativ you can apply some IPA on the area of the EN ic, enject 1V and see what if one of the caps or the ic is getting hot.

Instead of blindly removing IC/s / caps, narrow it down, find a consistent ground (USB port through hole pads are a good choice) and maintain it, check at all the locations which you’ve mentioned and see which area of the board where 3V3PDR shows up constitues the lowest reading in resistance, for example, if the cap by the M92 IC (which is on this rail) shows the lowest reading then in all likelihood it’s M92 IC at fault, or if the lowest reading is at the caps by the EN IC, then you can safely assume the fault is with either the caps / EN IC, and so on and so forth.

You might also wanna disconnect the EMMC module too and see if the short clears prior as this is also on this rail.

Given the liquid indicator has gone off and the signs of corrosion up near by the M92 at the screw hold pad, my money would be on the M92 IC (though EN IC is also a possibility as it’s in close proximity on the rear) but the checks above will validate this.

Hopefully your meter has the resolution :slight_smile: just saves you going down the wackamole route and potentially inducing further issues.

Thank you I’ll give it a try and let you know

Ok so the cap next to p13usb was showing 75 ohms and the other two next EC ic where 2.6 ohms each multimeter was set to 200 so probably not the right setting, so I removed and replaced the outter of the two caps next to the EC and the shorts have gone rebuilt and working perfectly that’s for the help I’m sticking around tho as I’ve taken this up as a hobby :smiley:

I think you meter leads might be a bit dodgy as the difference in resistance would have been quite a bit closer between areas as they are all on the same rail, I’m talking within a few points of an ohm within each other, nevertheless you found the problem in the end, nice work :+1:

you have to change the M92 ic
since it feeds the capacitor of the video ic