Now I’m not sure if this is actually to do with the LCD or not as I’ve not come across this before but the console power on and you see a back-light but no display. Normally when the lcd is damaged or the connector the console will turn on make sound and display on the TV. However this console does not. It shows a back-light is on as theirs a light but the console stays at 0.46 does not show a lcd display nor on the TV. Definitely not the connector as all pins are perfect no damage at all. Im confused most lcd issues I get I replace the lcd or the fpc connector and it works but this is different so please don’t ask me to do those 2 things as I’ve done that.
It continues to show a backigjt but no noise or anything else what can this mean?
Well, its not booting. But maybe it getting to the first nintendo logo but you cant see it due to LCD issues.
I would check to see if you have +5 and -5 volts to the LCD first, as you suggest you have already tried a known working LCD.
How do I check voltage around the lcd connector. As the pins are all perfect so do I check on the pins or
This image is for the area to the right of the LCD connector, when the LCD is on the edge of the board nearest to you:
Edit: Nope wrong image… 1 sec.
Thanks Insomniac is there a way I can contact you easily like discord etc just to double check I’m doing it right
Here is fine, I have the page open anyway most of the time.
I’m not getting any readings so not sure if I’m doing it right black probe on the gold test point and the red on the components
Test while the console is on. In voltage mode, put black probe on ground, and then the red probe on the pads in the image marked -5 and +5. If those are not supplying voltage find the tiny pad marked 1.8v enable, and see what you have there.
both pads show -5v and +5v so not sure what else it could be maybe I need to replace the bga which I’m hoping not. I bought this console of ebay the guy said his son dropped it on the sink and since then it no longer worked. It looked in immaculate condition and had never been opened before yet there was no signs of liquid damage. no corrosion anywhere. I changed the m923t36 which gained power to the board again but just backlight powers on no display. Connector is in perfect condition but should I change it anyways or is that unessary?
Ok, so if we are getting the correct voltage, and the connector is in good condition, and the LCD itself is known to be ok, I think we have to assume the display side of it is ok for now.
Do you know if this console is patched or not? Either way I would see if you can get it to connect to RCM mode on a PC.
Hi Insomniac thanks again for all help so far. Just tried it in rcm mode and nothing. Just checked too and its 2.0 Switch so its patched and not possible to be in rcm. The serial number for it is XAJ7004133. Ivbe also noticed that when I plug it in using a regular USB C cable nothing happens but when I plug in my original Nintendo switch charger the backlight boots up and it shows 15v with 0.46amps. Someone told me to check the MAX107050 Chiip but I believe this is only if it doesn’t boot up at all so if its shows a backlight when I plug it in then? if i unplug the cable it turns off again so it doesn’t turn on by pressing the power button only when i plug in the original Nintendo switch cable does it flash on with a backlight and then show the 15v 0.46. Its strange it seems to be powering on but not enough to show LCD display I’ve tried a different battery as well as charging a battery to 3.8v. So I’m honestly lost as to whats going on here. I don’t think its been tampered with at all from the ebay listing the guy wrote ‘was owned by my son who enjoyed playing with it until he dropped it in the sink and has never turned on since’ yet there was no signs of liquid to it which is strange but also no sign that it has been opened before either.
A patched switch should still be able to get in to RCM, it just won’t accept a payload. Though I have only ever managed to get it there removing the emmc.
I am kinda out of ideas here, hopefully someone a little more knowledgeable will step in. In the mean time, if it were me I would just start testing everything. I would check the usb port and continuity to all locations, I would check for short on any and all caps, I would check resistance to ground on the pmic inductors and on the r2r one.