anyone know if there are alternative solder points for a hwfly install, on a Switch v2?
I soldered up my flex cable, connected it to the hwfly chip, and the Switch didn’t boot - the hwfly didn’t light up at all. So I desoldered the flex to start over, and in doing so, I lifted the SP1 cap and its pad…
it’s the pad on the right which has lifted. I’m new so can’t upload pics to the post but included some links below.
i scraped some solder mask off but the copper underneath is a ground plane so looks like the pad goes down to a lower layer.
can i run a wire to the cap next to it and use that instead? The caps on the APU seem to be connected - in parallel i think?
i can post images now, so here they are -
i’ve fixed it now. Applied solder mark to the bare copper, then once it had dried, re-soldered a replacement cap (0201 1uf) at an angle, using what little of the pad was left.
i tried using some of those solder pad replacements but was too difficult gettong one in without creating a short to ground.
So, after soldering the missing cap it now work good?
I think i have the same problem. In my case switch boot on but no screen only sound.
I’d guess in your case you’ve bent a pin in the LCD connector.
It’s important to note that these are just bypass caps, and the console will work with or without them, not that I’m suggesting you pull them off or go out of your way to not install or anything (they are there for a reason) but if you’ve found yourself in a situation like the OP, then your probably better off just leaving well enough alone to avoid any potential future/further damage
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Last night, when I got home, I dissasemble the console again and removed and placed every cable, and to my surprise, it is now working. I will try to install Picofly again next weekend.