Anyone have advise on how to remove the M92T36 chip from the switch Motherboard? I use a rework hot air at 320 Celsius and amtech flux but I can’t get it off of the mother board. Not sure if i am not waiting long enough, bad tweezers, or just not doing something correctly. Any help would be great!
Temperature between 380 and 400 degrees, air flow 20-30 percent. Amtech flux is ok. Isolated around the M92T36 with heat-resistant foil so that the components around it do not cook. Not very close to the chip the air flow. Somewhere 5 cm from the chip is ok.
I gave that a try and it is still stuck on there. Should it lift up easily? Maybe someone tried this before me on the switch which is why it is so difficult to get off the motherboard? Not sure how difficult it should be to pull it off of the motherboard.
Lower the distance to 2 cm and do exactly what i wrote to you. Put more flux and hold the air until you feel it move trying to touch it from time to time with tweezers. When it moves a little you pick it up.
I gave it another shot and it’s stuck on there. I even turned up the heat, used more flux and nothing. I am wondering if this is specific to this switch as the condition was kinda beat up to begin with. Not sure if it melted or something else is holding it on. I have a second one I want to give a shot as it is at least turning on, does the nintendo logo and then dies because of the battery. I think that may be one that would work out a bit better. Is that something that is possible or is it a user error?
Don’t know what hot air station your using but my yihua 853d station won’t remove ic chip chips unless I set it to 450°c, set at air speed 5.
I use Quick 861DW 1000W Digital Rework Station. Even with a lower performance station, you can pick it up if you do it right. It is possible that a less performing station needs 450 degrees, although I doubt that is a real temperature It is important to put more flux from time to time during the process.
You have an example here on youtube:
My hot air station is that chinnese 853 and it’s easy to remove it, just be patience, first time is complicated because you have no idea of what you are doing… if this is your first time i recommend you to watch lot of videos of this procedure (get your head full of theory, tips, methods, etc…) before going to the practice…!!
That is what I have been doing. It is my first time so I am sure that has something to do with it. I am using this:
Hot Air Rework Station Kit with Digital Display SMD Desoldering Rework Station for BGA IC 700W 500°C
So it may be a case of it not being as hot as the display says. I am hoping for better luck on the second one.
Hey could you send me the link to the one you have on amazon? I want to make sure that I am not looking at off brand ones.
I had similar struggles. Here is what did the trick for me. I bought “branded” flux off Aliexpress and ebay. It turns out the same flux bought in a real life electronics store had very different properties. The internet knock off flux liquified very quickly and burned at temperatures above 300°C.
Another problem was my cheap reflow station. I had to set the temperature to 450°C for it to work. Also it works much nicer if you put the motherboard on a surface with lowish heat capacity (I have a wooden cutting board). When I put the MB in a clamp (in the air) it takes much longer to remove the chip.
make sure, you don’t burn your table and good luck!
mine looks like this one…
Thanks everyone! I bought a new one the YIHUA 853D and am hoping for better results. I think it was just the cheap 50 dollar station not getting hot enough. I didn’t think of the flux being an issue as well. I have the amtech nc 559. I would think it is fine but is there any harm in using a few different ones?
Amtech nc 559 is very good if it is original and it is not a poor quality Chinese clone.
There are a few tricks of the trade which can help you avoid destroying the board:
Pre-heat the board. This made a big difference for me and means that you’ll have the chip off the board 15 seconds after applying hot air. You are also avoiding a huge temperature differential as the board is already at 100 degrees evenly.
The lead-free solder used in manufacture has a very high melting point which will require you to push your hot air station into 400 degrees +. One trick is to apply some low-melt solder with a soldering iron to get it to melt at a lower temperature. Northridge fix has a great video on YouTube explaining all of this.
Don’t forget to apply heat with your gun to the board underside (below the IC) rather than from above. That way you can avoid cooking any plastic connectors which is real easy to do. Keep your air flow down and trust that the surface tension will hold the components down on the underside of the board.
Hi thanks for everyone’s help! I got a yihua 853 and I was able to get the chip off and replace it. Now I am just trying to troubleshoot the issue with the shorts gone but now it won’t charge. It went from showing the Nintendo logo and the battery not charging to now nothing. So any tips on best way to know the chip is placed perfectly?
make sure the chip is properly connected on every pad…