New M9T36 IC Blown After Charging and Turning Switch On

Hey there, hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction. So I’ve got a switch that wasn’t turning on and wasn’t pulling any amps. Upon board diagnostics, I found one of the caps next to the M9 IC was shorted to ground. I removed the chip and the short left with it, or so I thought. After replacing M9 the switch started to pull 0.50 amps and the battery began to charge. After a bit of charging I turned the switch on and the “Nintendo Switch” logo popped up and then was followed by a “2101-0001” error code. The switch then started to pull 0.13 amps and no longer charged. The cap that was shorted to ground before is now shorted again with the NEW M9 replacement. Does anyone have any experience dealing with this sort of fault where the M9 chip seems to blow even after replacement? Thank you for reading.

Most likely bad M92 install is the cause.

Prep the pads (nice fluffy pillows) - center ground pad should have slightly less in height vs the surrounding pads, align your new M92 IC. don’t squeeze down on the chip during reflow, if the pads were properly prepped it’s not necessary, following reflow of the IC and while the board is still hot, using a JL02 style tip (or similar) run round all M92 pins/pads to produce an extra nice joint, cleanup, look at the IC edge on and ensure you have no bridges or open connections

Hope that helps :slight_smile:

Ok, thank you for the reply. The switch has been charging and working fine after I re-did the M9. The switch doesn’t dock but at least it now turns on haha. P13 and the filters next to it seem fine and so does the charging port so yeah, kind of lost on that. Nonetheless thank you for the help!

I’m just bringing your other topic here as it’s the same board and the same fault so it’s easier for others to follow

If you suspect the USB port, visual inspection first, look inside and make sure none of the pins are bent and make sure the stem hasn’t snapped or feels loose, then I would verify you have continuity to the relevant points (using one of the many diagrams here) using a USBC breakout board, if all lines have continuity then the USB is likely fine

As for the error, remove the M92 IC, ensure the pads on the board have no bridges and it’s clean, power on the console with battery (don’t connect USB) and see if the error remains, if it doesn’t then it was solely related to the M92 IC… if the error remains with the M92 IC removed, then go ahead and remove the P13 IC next, same deal, check no pads are bridged and the board is clean, if no error then it was the P13 at fault

Ok gotcha will do, thanks for the reply! What’s odd is the fact that the pins LOOK fine and upon testing with a breakout board there was continuity in all the right places. I plan on replacing the charging port anyways but if the charging port isn’t what’s causing the M9s to short out consistently then I don’t know what is. Hopefully booting without the M9 will shed some light on whether PI3 plays a role in this. Thank you.

If the pins look visually fine and your getting continuity where you should and no bridges across pins then it would be a bit of a pointless excercise replacing the port, I mean unless the plastic is charred… in which case, yeah replace it :slight_smile:


So just to see we’re on the same page, you’re saying to remove M9 and turn on the switch to see if the error pops up? Well M9 is removed and when I turn the switch on the first Nintendo logo comes of then black screen, probably due to the missing power control IC.

Right, though I think the error still can show up in some cases to indicate an M92 issue (because it’s not present) but I think you can get around if if memory serves and continue using the console… I forget.

M92 isn’t power control, it’s USB management

Interesting, what FW version is the system on? maybe they’re preventing the console from fully booting on the newer versions with M92 removed… can someone else confirm? it’s been a while since I’ve done this

Just double checking but you haven’t had any issues regarding the reported battery percentage by any chance have you? thinking that that could potentially cause something like this, but hard to say

It’s an unpatched switch with the latest firmware. I wonder, perhaps you meant to remove PI3 instead of M9? I planned on removing M9 anyways so no worries.

No I meant the M92 IC, but your right I should have said to remove the P13 IC first.

That doesn’t explain why your unit isn’t booting with/without an error code with the M92 IC removed… it should… unless Nintendo has prevented this on the more recent OS versions, hopefully somebody can chime in and confirm this :slight_smile

If removing the P13 doesn’t resolve this error message (though as I said you may still see it with the M92 IC removed… depending), can you take high res shots of the board front and back, and then also closeups of P13 area, M92 area, BQ area, Fuel gauge area and finally USB area:just so I can take a look at the most common fault zones

actually, thinking about this, does you battery have enough juice to boot without a USB connected? as that may be the reason, you can measure the voltage on the battery with your meter, if it’s too low it may not clear the first boot logo in which case you may have to charge it up a bit externally

Battery is at 3.97 volts so it should be fine