Thank you
… and to think I had this one too, but I fossilized myself on that diagram.
I see they seem to be correct these ones … at first glance.
I am now disconnecting them all and re-wire…
I am still thinking ‘why’ is that diagram still around and it is wrong?
I must buy a faulty switch, repair it and use MINE as an sample!
mmm
Does anyone know where I can buy a USB-c male to male short cable or adapter/adaptor in UK?
Nobody mention fully connected - I understand for retail but not for us.
I am trying to avoid wasting time using 2 break boards and wire it myself.
Thanks
I think even with this wiring image there is a confusion with side A and B !
Not sure.
aagh, I wished I had a working pcb here!
Thanks, will try when I can.
By the wat, that image you sent, has the side a and b swapped I believe.
One important question.
I received the second hand dock + PSU and connected PSU to my ammeter and it does not light up!
I connected the PSU via a breakout boards and there is no output.
Do these need to be triggered to give output?
If not, I will return it to seller.
Pity, it was a decent deal for both - my saga continues!
The original charger only delivers power if both pmic (charger and device) are talking to each other.
You can plug in the charger with the ampmeter at the dock. The dock status led should blink once green, with no Switch inserted and ampmeter should show 5V.
Thanks Calvin, I thought so.
I connected PSU directly and both sides and it blinks green once.
Does not work with ampmeter and my USB-C female/female adaptor - I am guessing the adaptor might not have all pins connected, unless it will only work when Switch is connected.
So, PSU is OK after all.
I will try later on with switch, as I have disconnected a few of the wiring while I am checking / doing a kind of my own diagram.
Hi
I finally managed to correctly connect all wires and now it charges both sides at 5v and with original PSU.
Re-fit in switch and 1at time it did take 3 reboots to finally boots. All works a Wi-Fi is detected too, no errors present.
Taken PCB out to uv-ink wires.
Fit back in and it did reboot 11 times this time.
Then connected in original dock and PSU and charges.
I can see switch go black - as it connects and green led on.
I saw workshop TV (old one and might have problems with resolutions over 1280, I think) switch and showing Nintendo switch text, but black screen.
Tried pulling switch on off the dock. No change.
At some point it went orange and locked, I had to disconnect battery.
Taken home to other TV just in case = same thing.
Since screen was black, I guess PI3USB might need replacing again?
Any ideas?
Thank
M
PS customer is getting tired to wait!
Pfff
I am sorry to be a bother …
I am looking at page:
…t/no-dock-signal-dock-is-good/2184/4
I have PCB + battery + psu attached (a 5v + original Nintendo - same measurements]
The 3.3v are everywhere on PI3USB (which I also replaced just in case - again!), but no 3v3 on the 4x (I assume) resistors!
I am not sure Switch is on, since on 5v through USB meter, it only draws ~100mA - but battery is charged !
When on 15v Nintendo PSU, I cannot measure ‘Amps’, as my USB-C female-female adaptor I use to connect to USB-meter ‘might’ not be all connected - it does not connect at all.
I do not have a working Switch + not sure Dock is actually OK.
I might have a Switch to test the dock tonight - not mine.
I also do not have an old battery so I could make a PSU to battery pcb adaptor for ‘miming’ battery…
The four components under the pi3usb ic towards the usb c are 0201 0.1µF caps. If 3.3v are missing at their top pads, there is a bigger issue, because this pads are feed from the layers in the board and not from the pi3usb ic.
Thanks for your usual very good input.
Last night I managed to borrow a working Switch and I am now sure my Dock + PSU works fine.
At least I know that I got a good kit.
mmm OK, I will have to check for traces from there and back to see where it is coming from …
I am waiting for customer reply, as they might want to keep it as a Hand-held device - I am just guessing their reply!
I hope not, as I wish to fix it and in the process further learn how it works.
The fact I mentioned resistor was that I mistakenly referred to those resistor below - I must have been tired!
Will check tomorrow and I am sure there are 3v3
… and there were 3v3, then I have disconnected from power and started to check for continuity ‘again’.
I 'strangely did find TX1-/+ coil shorted, so I just used iron to refresh connections and it went away!
There must have been a tiny spec of solder tin.
I then ‘re-checked’ in Diode mode and all readings fine around PI3USB.
I happily thought, maybe I found the problem?
That short should not affect PI13USB really as it was before caps and it is not a problem in my view - for the chip.
Re-fit all and still no TV output, then orange came back again, twice.
I forced a 12-13 second reset and orange went but Switch did not come on!
I am fed-up now and to think I am a very careful repairer.
Disconnected battery - reconnected and inserted charger and it started normally, but this time battery started to go down 1% every 2-3 seconds!
Not a short now!
Being careful does not help, does it?
Currently trying to find if there is one!
All measure OK, but the battery draining is quite fast 1% per second, continues - with 5v attached and charging. Then I get the orange screen.
I guess the draining might have been there when it started going orange - days ago.
So, it does have another fault too.
mixed emotion = drepression?
Pfff
Are you talking about one of the five emi filters? Depending on the model version of the mainboard the emi filters have a ground connection in the middle. They should have continuity from top to down.
Only one pair of the additional signal lines is in use, while connected to the dock. If you use a usb-c extension you can check if the dock shows a picture on the tv if the usb c orientation is flipped.
With orange screens I have no further experience. Often mentioned in cases with faulty wlan ics. Maybe our user Severence have an idea.
If nothing is getting hot at this discharging rate, does the battery voltage match the displayed battery status?
Just keeping a ‘journal’ with my thread.
Even though I already did try it initially a few times, I now replaced battery with ‘new’ one and all is OK … for now!
No orange screen
It boots straight away
no battery drain with or without charger.
Draining (with no charger connected) went from 96% to 66% in 25 minutes
What is its normal draining doing nothing?
Certainly less, must last 2 hours, normally.
Does it?
Ps did watch once a video on youtube where they did find the problem of fast draining. Do not remember, guessing the BQ24193 ?
Yes, 5 filters (all large ones) - yes do have ground connection in middle.
Waiting for a HDMI-USBc adaptor …
Will try the extension too later … if I find it - disappeared!
Yes I believe battery did match, but this morning … after I switched it off last night at 64% (while testing how it was discharging and it was at 1% per minute) is not coming on. Battery is at 4.01v
Connected 5v charger and shows the 0.470mA both sides. Connected 15v and charges too (cannot check ampere - I need to make an adaptor) but I see it at 4.04v now off PSU and 4.13 with 15v psu attached and going up slowly.
Still not coming on.
Disconnected battery and re-connected, then re-connected 15v PSU and now shows battery icon on top-left side and came on no re-boots at 61% now and going down again.
Problem has re-surfaced, battery going down while charging.
Might have to replace BQ maybe and maybe old battery (4 years old) might have been faukty and damaged BQ?
Now I guess at 58% went Orange.
hahahahahahah just my luck - after all this work … well I am learning at the same time.
Re-disconnected/connected battery and switches on again at 91% then went to 61%.
I am letting it discharge it now.
… now shows 69% - no PSU connected!
Pfff
Sounds life you have a bad fuel gauge
Set sleep mode off, now at 67% - I will let it discharge… but this might only solve calibration … maybe.
Discharged to 64% I guess in 12 minutes …