Nintendo switch is fully functional but does not charge

This HAC-001 Switch worked well for about two years, but after not using it for a while, the battery discharged completely and it wouldn’t charge or turn on. I replaced the battery, and the Switch turned on, but it would show an error message associated with a broken M92T36 IC. I tested the capacitors on the LDO outputs of the chip, and some were shorted, so I replaced the IC (and some of the passives since I knocked some off during repair), and I was able to boot it up and play a game after that. However, the battery ran low, and the Switch would not charge when plugged in. I replaced the BQ24193, which I suspected to be the issue (no pins were shorted, but I do not think the IC was doing anything because I probed the inductor with my oscilloscope and got no signal), but it still did not charge. I tried using a bench supply to power the BQ24193 VBUS pins directly, but I got no significant current draw (highest was only 30mA). I resorted to charging the battery directly off my bench supply because I thought that taking the battery out of UVLO mode (under voltage lock out) would help. I was still able to turn the switch on, but I was unable to charge it even though the switch said it was charging (battery percentage dropped even when plugged in). Does anyone have any recommendations on what to do next or what this issue might be?

Things I know are working:
M92T36 IC - there is 15v on the USB input when plugged into the official adapter and the switch boots without an I2C error
Fuel Gauge IC - battery percentage displays

I’ll run some more tests to verify things like voltage, inductor switching, and possibly I2C and post the results here.

Another question:
Will the Switch throw an error message if it is not able to see the BQ24193 on the I2C bus?

AFAIK, you will not see the switch boot if BQ does not report back as functional. How does the soldering look on the north side of the BQ chip, have some photos of your work? Back side of the board around the fuel gauge are a couple of resistors, they still test out ok (should be a 10k and 100k iirc)?