Nintendo Switch power button not working

That via leads to a test point midboard front or back. You didn’t end up needing to find it but I promise you it exists somewhere. Could be on other side of board on Mariko. I was second guessing myself on seeing that via so its nice you confirmed.

Def a via on Mariko and a trace leading under connector on V1

This is a bit better.

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This is the same trace.

My line was just for the sake of clarity. I should have been paying better attention to where it surfaced.

Looks like it goes under the pad, goes to via and then on V1 comes out test point. Dunno where test point is on Mariko.

Its purple one with arrow on that other picture from the internet.

One more thing than I’ll shut up. After looking at the boards more I’m almost positive this is the 12nf mentioned in the photo.
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If this is wrong please correct me.

Hi FCE, thanks for the message, basically you are right, and thanks for editing the picture, i am not sure if the 12nF capacitor are for the one above or under the power ribbon connector, or even both, but at least what i am sure is that the 2 components coming in the line of the power button itself are resistors, that’s definitely certain.
For the rest, i confirm the trace under with my violet trace is working out, as you may have notice in my pictures, i even scratched it to validate it. At least it doesn’t force you to find another test point for some boards.
By the way, silly question, but haven’t found a post talking about it, what are the board revisions the Nintendo Switch does have ? I read a lot about mariko, V1, … but i don’t understand to what Switch revision we are referring to with those names. Thanks.

received 2 NS today. v1 and v2. From my measure( out of line) both “resistor” blue circled next to 150 ohm one from 2 boards are OL value in resistance mode and around 0.1~0.2 nF/100-200 pf from capacitance measure. This is what I bet your 130k measure is wired from me

May it also depend on the multimeter you are using?

I think my UT61E DMM is more reliable than range select old fashion type

By the way, sorry for my ignorance, but what do you mean by your measures “out of line” ?

out of the circuit, or remove out of board

ok got it, then i don’t understand why it is different in your case, all the boards i have at the moment looks like resistor, beside the fact that i get a funny value for the one that goes to ground. But for the example, the 150R on all boards i have (HAC-01, HAC-10 and HAC-20) are all measuring 150R, but in circuit in my case. And even the looking, both components are always black in the boards i have, while capacitors are brown, weird

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I didn’t just guess those values.

I found both those in pictures and schematics all around the internet. It completes the circuit properly and reverts power button back to working.

What you are finding is super odd jkyoho IMHO.

Can anyone else confirm thats a cap not a resistor?

Sorry jkyoho, methinks something wrong with your equipment.

Mauro2319 is right, they dont even look like capacitors

From gbatmp

*TheJeffChen

"Can anyone help me with the one pointed by the red arrow?

“I pried the connector in the wrong way and this one is now missing. I tried measuring it on my good switch and it seemed to have no continuity at all, like an open line. However it doesn’t look like a capacitor either. I also have not been able to observe any ill effect after missing it.”

*Modificatorul

“Resistor 0.13 Mohm, size 0201, mesured on board.”

You may want to get a new multimeter.

I only know of Mariko but have never put an iron to one. Basically all my experience is V1. Those two and OLED are the variations I’m aware of.

Mariko has better battery cause Tegra was reworked(smaller nm process or whatever). Almost all the parts are interchangeable between v1 and mariko cart reader,sd , LCD. Only Tegra differs.

Please leave this thread alone. Your information is bad and it will confused people.