Maybe that helps
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I think you swaped the sbu1 and cc1 around (red lines on board) 5 is going to cc1 and 8 to sbu1.
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You are right. Editing error. Thx
so the vbus is just connected to what?
in the 8th picture it shows 2 connectors going to the front of the board but in the diagrams it doesnt seem to do that whats going on there
They go to the other side to vbus and it appears here in the picture.
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fyi, in your original pics you can dig out the two outer ground pads which you ran the two enameled wires via the holes. It’s just ground plane below so it’s safe and neater.
Hey what gauge of magnet wire did you use for this project
Very well done. Good job Bro.
You look amazing.
I tried in the same situation, but I forgot that only half of the usual solder was attached, and because I connected the adapter strongly, the other half of the pads were also removed. 
Needs more careful treatment
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great job,
quick question: how thin was the solder mask, did you heat up from the bottom or the top of the usb port.
You need to get the solder mask as thin as possible as the connector won’t sit well. You can try to tweak the pins of the connectors down so that they can take up the slack if it makes sense.
I heat from the bottom. It’s a tricky operation as seconds too long, and you melt the inner plastic of the connector, so you need to be quick and ready.
Don’t forget to tin the pads of the connector and the board to maximise bond. And plenty of flux!
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how do you clean the initial flux off after soldering the jumper wire? each time I use a q tip it just moves the jumper wire out. Do you tin the jumper wire after the solder mask? Great idea on tweaking the inner rows on pins so that it can try to bond with the jumper wire.
Yep. That’s a pain. So long as you have a good connection, you can afford to disturb the placement whilst you clean. I often use a soft bristle toothbrush and brush in one direction to minimise pressure on the bonds. Once free of flux, you can reset positions ready to apply UV mask to insulate and provide mechanical support. This is an important stage as not getting all flux off well compromise the bond of the mask.
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REFOX Soldering Lug For Pads Repair
I am actually using this now. I’ll report back if I am successful.
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When using UV mask, cover the pad with mask and after putting the UV lamp 2-3 minutes with a spatula, clean the hardening mask from the surface you want free for tining. It will work without fail.
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(www. you tube. com/watch?v=NUR54Wo0JRI)
I did my recovery this way, I recorded the procedure, it worked perfectly!
Hi there. I want to thank you for creating this thread and also share my experience that I had with attempting to fix this problem. I got a Nintendo Switch the USB port of which had badly bent pins and it wouldn’t dock anymore, but charge. I wanted to replace the USB port and of course, it was my first time, I destroyed some pads. After I found that too many pads were completely ripped out and not being sure which pad has which trace directly adjacent to itself, I decided to go with “method two” 
i took me actually months to get all the parts and tools together, mainly because of delayed shipments. I ordererd solder mask, 0.1 mm isolated jumper wire and ribbon flex cables (those are exactly ones you can find in a PS4 controller, with 12 connectors, 0.5 mm each), and some good quality tweezers.
I made a row of mistakes during this repair, some of them were because I tried to find a workaround, since I had to wait for parts to arrive. Attached is now a series of photos with some comments.
So this is mainly about the second (hidden) set of pins / pads of the USB-C port.
This is how bad it was:
First I tried to slide the ribbon under the pads:
As this was not working too well (it wouldnt align to the board), I went with along with the method that was used here in this thread, … :
…covered it with some solder mask…
… and cut it and scraped off the ends:
Now that I didn’t yet have jumper wires, I tried using the thinnest isolated wires I could find in my place and tried connecting them as shown by the author of this thread. I think they look a bit like sausages under the microscope =D :
This was a bad idea, as they were still to thick to put altogether back in the frame and have it aligned nicely. Also, it was nearly impossible to organize them in this tight spot and also to get them firmly connected to the tiny solder points on the board, especially the EMI filters before the P13USB. Some of them kept disconnecting, especially since the flex cable was not fixated and there were lots of small movements of the whole thing while working on it. So I gave it up and waited for my jumper wires.
Muuuch better =) :
So here comes my next mistake. I took the wrong points. Luckily I realized that before connecting it to a charger ^^ :
OK so after correcting that and then testing the device, I found that it still wouldn’t dock. I checked some traces and points and found that one of the EMI filters had been damaged, probably a long time before already and probably as a result of bent pins of the previous USB port or a bad charger. As I didn’t have any replacement part for that, and I read a bit about these components, I decided just to bridge the traces accordingly. I am not sure about long term usage in this condition though. Also, lastly I applied solder mask on top of the flex and used some isolation tape between the flex and the port to prevent any shorts.
Another comment: after I built in the port, there was still some space between the first row of pins and the pads on the board. Probably my layer of solder mask on the second row of pins of the port, plus the flex cable, was too thick. However I was able to bend them all down to make contact and solder them to the pads. After lots of nudging and correcting, everything was firm.
Finally, the switch works, docks and fast charges. One issue remains; it only fast charges one way, if I turn around the charger, the current it draws is near zero, but it recognizes the charger. I’m not sure if this is maybe due to the missing EMI filter or maybe one of the connections between the port and the board has come loose again. I could check each point with my USB testing board, but as it docks and works and fast charges in the dock, I consider it as fixed for now =)
Thanks again for creating this thread, it helps us all to fix even the worst damaged USB ports =) Cheers!
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