Nintendo Switch, repairing damaged or lifted pads on USB-C port!

I decided to open this thread in the idea that it will be useful to the community of this forum.
I am not an electronics specialist, but i have some years of experience in microsoldering and especially in reballing. I have seen that there, are enough users who have faced in the process of repairing Switch with pads removed from motherboard in the process of replacement the USB-c port. This happens, when the person performing this operation uses inadequate tools or incorrect settings of the hot air station, namely temperature, the air flow or the flux. I am trying here to present two methods of reconstructing the missing pads from the motherboard to the usb-c port. None of the methods belong to me, i also found them on the internet and used them successfully in the in the repair process with destroyed usb-c pads.

The first method.
I used a connector ribbon cable and under the microscope i cut the small pieces of copper after i previously peeled them with a cuter, about the size of the original pad left on the motherboard. I scraped on the logic board of the switch with a surgical knife in the place where the pad was lifted until i removed the solder mask that covers the circuit and i managed to make the circuit visible. I put a little flux and with the soldering iron i put the tin on the circuit. Then carefully i put a piece of cut copper in the place where the original pad was and carefully fixed it with a little UV solder mask, which i dried quickly with a UV lamp. Then with the soldering iron i made a bridge with tin between the circuit and the new pad implanted on the board. That is how i proceeded to all the lifted pads.

Method two is a bit more complicated.
I cut 15mm from the connector ribbon cable and under the microscope, with the soldering iron i solder the circuits directly to the pins on the usb-c port. I mounted the usb-c port on the motherboard and the other end of connector ribbon cable i stuck it on the other side of the usb-c port. I scraped on the ribbon cable and i managed to make the circuit visible. Then i pulled wires from the ribbon contacts to the alternate points on the motherboard as in the diagram below and i isolated with UV solder mask.
Both methods require patience and good microsoldering tools. A microscope or a good magnifying glass will require for a successful operation.
I apologize for my bad English and i hope it will be useful for what i have set out here.

index

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Thank you I just got a similar case ! thanks for sharing the best of what I have ever seen!

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A good test method witch USB Type C Plug Breakout board

Interesting post! In response to the second method, could one lift the second row of pins on the port to make easier to solder the ribbon cable without the need to flex the cable?

There’s a YouTube video that shows repairing of the USB-C port. I can’t post links but the title of the video is: Nintendo Switch - Charging Port Missing Pad Repair

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Fxdx, what/where did you purchase the USB port?

The type I am getting sent are not “exactly the same” as the original port as the original you can access the hidden pins from underneath slightly. The ones I have been sent you can not.

Did you modify the port at all when using the ribbon cable?

You have to dremel into the metal casing and remove some of the plastic inside the connector

On the “clone” ones you can access the pins by slowly removing the stuff until you reach all contacts of the connector

I find the clone ones better, you can bend the needed pins up and solder some wire to them in order to restore the connection

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Thanks. That makes sense.

I have managed to solder a ribbon cable onto the hidden pins row, I’ve checked for continuity/shorts/bridges seems ok, I will attempt to jump wires to the alternative points when my solder mask gets delivered.

any chance have pinout for the switch lite.
I recently received a switch lite cc2/cc1 line has no value.

Maybe that helps

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I think you swaped the sbu1 and cc1 around (red lines on board) 5 is going to cc1 and 8 to sbu1.

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You are right. Editing error. Thx

so the vbus is just connected to what?

in the 8th picture it shows 2 connectors going to the front of the board but in the diagrams it doesnt seem to do that whats going on there

They go to the other side to vbus and it appears here in the picture.
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fyi, in your original pics you can dig out the two outer ground pads which you ran the two enameled wires via the holes. It’s just ground plane below so it’s safe and neater.

Hey what gauge of magnet wire did you use for this project

Just for fun, hard-core USB rebuild! Worked too even in dock mode!

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Very well done. Good job Bro.

You look amazing.
I tried in the same situation, but I forgot that only half of the usual solder was attached, and because I connected the adapter strongly, the other half of the pads were also removed. :sob:
Needs more careful treatment

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