Nintendo switch Usb-c replacement

Hi everyone,

I am trying to repair my first console, it’s a nintendo switch, it has a bad usb-c port, no short circuit on the others mains chips.
I managed to get the usb-c port out and overall I feel like I did a not so bad job. The board is pretty clean, I did’nt burned any chip, I only slightly burnt some plastic near the usb-c port.

But it needed some time and a bit more temperature (up to 480°C) and some resistances dropped off the motherboard (rookie mistake I guess)… I still have the resistances and the board seams fairly clean. Do you think it is possible to put them back on ? I feel like I can do this but I really don’t want to mess this up more than I did.
Here is a picture of the side of the board without the resistances :

Here are the resistances :

Also, the usb-c port didn’t go out perfectly, it still has some connectors fixed to the motherboardboard. Do you have some ideas as how I can safely take them out ?
Picture here :

Did you use a big or small nozzle? (Small is better because you only heat up the usb port)
Its kinda bad when components unintentionally desolder but is fine for a complete beginner

The stuff that remains on the usb pads is leftover solder, just put some solder on a tip and go over all contacts then wipe with some solder wick over it to remove the leadfree solder and solder in the holes

Pieces of the old connector in the holes can be removed by pushing a tweezer into the hole while heating it with an solder iron

PS: The components are capacitors, resistors are the black ones ^^

Thank’s for your answers.

I used a 8mm nozzle but I can try a 5mm one if that is too big.
Yeah it’s pretty bad, do you think it can be rebuild ? I think I can add a bit of heat until the solder melt and put them back on but I don’t think I have a lot of tries.

For the pads, can’t I just use the same solder to fix the next connector ?
If I apply some solder wick over all the contacts their will not be any solder left and I will have to resolder them. Is it not a bit too mutch work for a begginer ?
I think they may be 2 of the pads who have no more solder and 2 more who needs cleaning since they have too more solder on them. So I still have a bit of work on them to do.

Ok I’ll try that for the pieces of the old connector.

Yeah I wasn’t sure about the term I was using either, I was using google translate for that (french here !) maybe I shouldn’t.

Since you dont have missing pads its not that bad, you should remove the old solder so you can place the capacitors properly and solder them on

You should remove the old solder from the connector pads because it is uneven and it can be very likely that you have cold solderjoints because there is not enough solder

Removing the solder is really easy, use a soldering iron at 360-380°c with pencil tip, apply solder and go over the contacts, then put solder wick on the pads and gently wipe with the tip on the wick to remove the old solder

After that you can put down low temperature solder (on the contacts of pcb and connector, on the connector outside normal solder) so it solders easier with hot air; just put some on your tip, apply flux and go over the pads so that they are coated equally (You can also use normal solder but it is harder for a beginner to solder the hidden row of the connector)

You could check on youtube how to get rid of overdue solder, it’s not that hard but since you are a beginner you should take a look at some youtube videos.

If you need further support I can share contact details and guide you.

Thanks for your advices their are very helpfull !
I’ll look at some more youtube videos wile the missing parts and tools arrive. I’ll update when I have everything and think I’m good to go (or need further assistance).

1 Like

Hi !

Some update, I am trying to remove the old solder from the capacitor’s pads. Right now, I am struggling to do it.
I have check some videos and I have put some new solder over the pads, then use solder wick to go over the pads up to 480°c, but it just won’t come out. I have added a bit of solder flux paste to help it flow, but the solder just stay on the pads.

Here is a picture if you need a bit more details :

Hi again,

Did you add some low melt solder (183C or lower)?
If not do so, remove the solder with the low melt solder, then remove the chip with hot air.

If you need more help with
soldering techniques, its better if you contact me at whatsapp or facebook.

Which soldering iron do you use?
480°c is enough to (re)move the pads from the board, 380° is usually enough
(with really high temperatures you “remove” the flux in the wick before it can work)

remove the solder from the bq chip & verify that there are no bridges before you solder on the capacitors

pads look clean enough, take capacitor which you want to solder on with tweezers, apply flux, place it onto pads and use pencil / “knife” soldering iron tip (with some solder on it) and solder on one side of the component; move it if necessary and solder on the other side

there are smd training kits which would be better than the (still working) mainboard, get one and try to place and remove the components so you have a “feeling” for it

Dallas :
No, at the time I thought low melt solder was for soldering stuff back and for not removing solder. So I ended up doing something useless.
I plan to reapply some solder (colder this time my solder wire is supposed to melt à 227°c so I am gonna try that).
BUT I have actually burnt my only iron tip and, since their is no shop selling the parts in my town, I have to order some new with a 2 weeks shipping delay. So there is that.
I keep your whatsapp/facebook idea in mind but I think I got this now.

DSch :
I use a Yihua 899D II station with a hot air gun and soldering iron, with a pencil tip given with it.
Yeah that what I figured out afterward it is useless to put too much temperature (I think ?).
I think there is no bridges, I have cleaned the board a bit (their where a lot of old flux on the chip) and it look clean.
That’s my next plan, but since I have burned my tip I have to wait again…

Hi again,

you should always use a low melt solder for removing chips and larger caps, and so on. my recommendation is that you are using 138-183C temp solder wire/paste (leaded if possible) for removal. the 183c solder could also be used for reballing and installing new SMD parts.

The reason why you should do this is to decrease the time with the hot air gun to lower the risk of thermal mass damages / small parts flying away.

If you don’t want to wait 2 weeks on the soldering tips there
is a technique that I could recommend:

Add some flux and then apply heat with the hot air gun until the solder around the chip until the solder becomes liquid, then you should gently touch the solder with a soldering wick.

Btw, where are you from?

I think I will wait for the tips to arrive since, as far as I understand what you are suggesting me, I will only take the solder off but I still have to put the capacitors back on with a solder iron.
By the way, I may have broken the tiniest one of the capacitors (the one who is less than 1millimeter long). Is there any website who sells them ? If not I have a bluescreen donor, but it still adds to the pile of work.

I’m french, that’s where all the grammar errors are comming from if that’s the question :wink:

Sir, nothing is wrong with your spelling or grammar, just wanted to know where you are living because of the 2 weeks shipping time. Have you checked ebay EU?

And alls caps are for sale but we have no schematics and board diagrams to know the correct values, if you have a donor board you should take parts from it :slightly_smiling_face:

Well I’m glad to here about it :smiley:
Apparently the shipping times changed during that time and I may be able to try everything next week, so that’s not so bad.
Just, sorry but I didn’t get where the caps are for sales. Is it on the tronic fix store ?

I don’t know which caps you are looking for, but my point is you can buy all kinds of caps but first you need to know the values and size ”10uF 0402 Cerm Cap”