No touch, LCD jumps/glitches, insert a cartridge and error code

I appreciate all the info and advice. It was $100 for x1200 zoom with 7inch screen, LED lighting, lion battery and video out. Im in love with it. Amazon.

I really wanted it to have its own display.

Yeah, 100% agreed on video out capability. 100$ is really a good price, mine is definitely more expensive. Amazon . com ?

Yes sir Amazon . com


I plan on also using it on my extensive diamond collection.

Okay, I don’t have an extensive diamond collection… but that box has inspired me.

I wonder if I can see individual covids with it? lol

:rofl: maybe … you should try, how knows what you will find out :rofl: Basically it looks pretty much like mine in terms of characteristics, does it have HDMI or USB output ?

USB output.

I was impressed with the usb quality feed. Looks like parts come on Mondayish

Nope.

Swapped out the LCD connector with my fancy microscope. Issues STILL present. Looks to be deeper issue than LCD connector.

I will say that the tips in this thread for attaching LCD connector without damage are VERY handy. A little IPA makes it slide in.

Ive fixed everything but this issue. It may just not be portable anymore. Always stuck to tv.

Im REALLY disappointed. I thought for sure this would clean it up.

This threads pretty long at this point so don’t recall if I covered it, but I would check your getting your +/- 5V rails at the 8316 IC, if you search the forum for “8316” you should be able to find a few posts by me covering where and what to check etc

If the original cause was bent pins then there is a pretty good chance the 8316 IC, or one of the two diodes has failed which as a result will mean no +/- 5V rails and in turn no picture on the LCD :+1:

I never did focus in on that area. Will check it out.

Not seeing any of those "1834"s

Severence, bad 8316?

take a look at the following thread as your issue sounds similar

Severence, I need your help.

Would it be possible to take this to email o as not to gunk up thread?

I just need some clairfication on measuring the resistance. Im getting all manor of odd readings on my meter.

fullcircleembedded @ gmail . com

I dont think you get these "1834"s unless the LCD ribbon is connected. This is normal on a board that is not attached to screen?

Also Im not clear on how to check the diodes

I can’t really help you with Calvins diode mode reading charts as I don’t typically test/mesure using diode mode, but I’m pretty confident he would have taken those readings with the board out of assembly etc and if your readings on that rail (with red probe on ground) isn’t in the ballpark it points to issues with the diode/IC

Sorry bud there is not much I can tell you which I didn’t already cover in that other topic. your basically just wanting to check and see if the diodes have failed open or closed by measuring across them in resistance, so, one probe on one side of the diode and the other probe on the other side, as these are surface mount diodes you’ll have a hard time probing the diode pads directly (or risk damaging the diode/s) so you’ll want to use the next nearest neighbour pad/component for probing. after you’ve done this, note your reading, switch your probes round (red where black was and black where red was) and note the reading again and post them both here, you may find in one polarity the reading will fluctuate, don’t worry about this, if the -5V diode is open then the IC will have died too, so will be a case of replacing both

I checked all the electronics, diodes, power rails… and it all looked good.

I know with my solder flow failure/successes with processors and memory depends on every darn leg being 100% soldered. It can look great but not have connection.

I was correct you dont get that “1834” or whatever reading in diode mode if the LCD is not attached.

Anywho, reflowed the new port again. For the first time ever this MB is not glitching out…

I need to test more extensively,(digitizer was a mess, new one on the way so I got parts all over waiting for replacements) but this looks VERY promising. Appears the first attempt was not quite enough despite it looking great under scope.

I think its solved by replacing the LCD cable connector just like OhItsSlick. When I can 100% verify I will be back.

1 Like

Good stuff, glad you solved your problem :+1:

You are very helpful around here. Thank you.

It was the LCD connector and the second reflow fixed it.

I still have a few issues with this machine but I think Imma call it good and put her back together(tried 3 times to replace cartridge connector on MB and failed).

Thank you to all involved.

The Cod3r was mentioned…

This guys videos are VERY informative FYI.

Glad we were able to figure out the issue. Good job and take care :slight_smile:

1 Like