I’m looking for help diagnosing a very odd and inconsistent issue with my OLED. I recently installed a picofly in my Switch OLED. I’m a semi experienced modder and have done several picofly installs on V1/V2 and lite models. I’ve done multiple HDMI output mods on several consoles so I’m not entirely new to micro soldering, but I don’t consider myself a pro either. That said. I did the Kamikaze method on my Oled which went well. I tested everything each step along the way. Exposing the dat-0 point went smoothly and all solder joints were clean with no shorts. Everything worked perfectly for about a day. I was able to to boot to Hekate. I backed up the emmc. Installed HATS pack and dumped a game cart with zero issues. I could launch games form the card slot as well as homebrew until it just shut off while I was using it. I found that disconnecting the battery for about an hour would allow it turn back on, but only for a very short period of time. Sometimes it will only show the Nintendo logo, sometimes it will boot all the way to the OS and I can navigate around using either the joycon or touchscreen for 10-15 seconds or so before it abruptly shuts off. I have removed the picofly and all flex cables to rule it out, but the behavior remains the same. It won’t ever show a charging indicator. But I can power it on either by using the battery or without the battery and only the USB power adapter. So far I haven’t gotten it to turn on at all while both the battery and power adapter are connected. Once it shuts off, its nonresponsive unless i leave it without power or battery for a while. It seems like the longer I leave it sit, the longer it will run before shutting off. I’ve tested for shorted caps with my multimeter, but I honestly don’t know how to go about this methodically, since the behavior is inconsistent.
A couple other notes. I did power the console from a Dell USB-C laptop charger while I was installing stuff to the SD card and I fear that may have something to do with the problem. I’ve also used this same adapter on my V1 and lite with no issues, but maybe the OLED is just more sensitive. I had also copied some files from an SSD connected to the USB-c port on the switch. Again I’ve done this before on other consoles without issue, but perhaps it was drawing too much current from the console or something?
Any guidance into tracking down the problem would be appreciated. I’d prefer not to shotgun it and randomly replace parts. I do have a hot air station, but I’m not experienced in replacing BGA chips. I could probably manage to replace the BQ or M92T36 if I had to.
Thank you for any help.