PS3 Slim rare condition/ GLOD/YLOD?

Current ISSUES: PS3 SLIM CECH-3001a has green light but no display and it turns off after 30 seconds. Able to get beep codes when attempting to go into recovery mode but still no display and turns off.

Hello, sorry if this ends up being confusing. To begin with, I have a ps3 slim which worked really good in the past and it recently stopped working. By recently I am referring to 6-7 years ago when I had 0 knowledge on how to fix things. Before, the ps3 would turn on only if the hard drive light remained on. I used to give some taps on top of the ps3 and that would fix it but came to a point were that isn’t the solution anymore. The hard drives light would turn on at boot up (about 3 blinks) then it would turn off which would result on the ps3 not displaying to the tv. The taps on the ps3 would make it work so that the blinking hard drive light would turn back on. While it was on, there would be a display but like I said not anymore. After trying different solutions it just made it worst. It now turns off after 30 seconds even without displaying. The console seems to freeze so I cant turn it off other than disconnect the power cable. I tried a lot of solutions and none worked. Some made it worst and some made it better.

Solutions Tried:

Solution 1: Experiment with different TV’s, HDMI’s, and even Composite cable. I even tried the reset of video output/reset resolution.

Result: I would not get the beep codes in order to perform reset resolution. Console would have the first beep and last. I read on other forums that you can hold the eject and power button but didn’t work as well. All it would do is speed up the fan to clean itself I’m assuming.

Solution 2: Removing hard drive to verify the hard drive is not corrupted. I also tried other hard drives.

Result: Nothing different happens. Same thing which is no display and turns off after 30 seconds.

Solution 3: Use a heat gun and treat it like a YLOD and I applied flux around the CPU and GPU.

Result: This brought the beep codes back but still powers off after 30 seconds and no display.

Solution 4: I turned white screws from power supply to see if that would work in case this was the problem for shutting down.

Result: Nothing changed, it remained the same.

Solution 5: Tried different power cables and outlets.

Result: Still remained the same.

In conclusion, NONE of the solutions worked. Some made it better and others WORST. If you have any suggestions I would GREATLY APPRECIATE IT.

Based off the information you have given, by doing “solution” 3 you probably killed it. It has been a huge misconception that solder is the issue on consoles, when the problem is the flip chip. Your issue is more likely than not the chip itself, which will need to be replaced. And on the chance that you decide to reflow/reball it again and it works, don’t expect it to last.

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Others have reballed the GPU with leaded solder balls and according to them, the console lasts longer. Is that true?

Its really hit or miss. By heating up the chip you can temporarily revive the die, and it can either last a day, or in some rare cases a year or two. My guess is it really depends on what temperature they actually preheat and reball it at, and that would determine how long it lasts.

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You might have done the heat gun for the CPU/GPU but the metal heat spreader on top took most of the heat. If you think you can but do it very carefully/ rewatch videos and see the mistakes of others, perform delid of the GPU first as the CPU is a real bitch. Once you take the metal heat spreader off , wait till cool down (20mins or so) then clean off the older paste with plastic scraper/alcohol. Then put flux around the GPU chip and try reflow again (heat the area first at low temp before heating the chip up at the higher)

Before you put the spreader back on , put thermal past on the 4 chips and center of GPU.