Ps5 edm-044 . uart 80801104 ram bank 3

BLOD 2 seconds. UART reports 80801104 RAM Bank 3.

Sk Hynix H56G42AS4D X014

Although they told me the console hadn’t been opened and the warranty seal was indeed there, I detected flux residue near bank 3 under a microscope.

I checked the standby voltages, and they’re OK.
The RAM tries to rise to 1.35V as expected in the test area.

However, I noticed that on the upper test pads of each RAM bank, the voltage tries to rise and then collapses, except on bank 3: nothing is detected, 0V.

Thermal camera test: all 8 are heating up as expected… but I don’t understand why there’s no voltage on the test pad.

Correction!
The test pads were dirty with residual flux.

The test pad on bank 3 also reads a voltage that tends to rise.

Should I try replacing it? Any suggestions?
The caps under bank 3 on the opposite side are OK, no shorts.

I would lift RAM chip No 3 and test the readings of the pads at the mainboard and the RAM chip.

My readings are from a Micron D9XKV RAM:

The readings from the mainboard:

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Thanks Calvin, you’re always available to help!
If the chip is missing readings, can we assume it’s a defect? ​​If the PCB is missing readings, can we assume it’s an APU?

I tried keeping the chip flat, but it didn’t make any difference.
I noticed a slightly thicker and shinier BGA ball underneath… you can see it even without a microscope.

I guess the RAM chip No 3 was changed before, as the shiny leaded solder balls and the flux residue under the RAM chip in question would explain.

Instead of resoldering a RAM chip a second or a third time, I usually meassure the pads on the mainboard at least to ensure that there is no short or o.L. where it shouldn’t be. If a BGA contact is loose at the APU it could end up in the same error code.

Your reasoning is correct.
What setting do you recommend for removal?
I was thinking of 370°C and 20% speed.

I usually go with 450°C and 30% airflow. But I’m not sure if it is compareable.
With the presumably leaded solder balls under the RAM chip, it should be not long heating time.

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I replaced bank 3, now it gives me 80801F12…
On the opposite side of the board, the two test pads give me zero ohms… incorrect soldering? Some spheres aren’t touching? Bad IC ? The other test pads of the other ram give over 1kOhms

before soldering the new IC I measured the values ​​on the PCB and they were all present although different from yours (Hynix RAM)

Maybe connection issues at the BGAs?

Yes, I think some of the spheres are not making contact. Can you recommend a reflow setting? I don’t have a preheat, I use an Atten 862-D station.

@Calvin I reflowed the RAM…now UART 8081001 and I no longer have 1.35V on the RAM. The resistance ohm on the test pads are back to normal. What could have happened? Before, there was 1.35V coming in…now zero. Bad RAM ? Bridges below? Anything else?

@Calvin I reflowed the RAM…now UART 8081001 and I no longer have 1.35V on the RAM. The resistance ohm on the test pads are back to normal. What could have happened? Before, there was 1.35V coming in…now zero. Bad RAM ? Bridges below? Anything else?

216D 8081001

What is the resostance readings on the 1.35V rail?

I had to remove the IC RAM again. Looking under the microscope, I noticed a bridge not on the PCB… but on the IC! Incredible.
Maybe it was raballed badly, so I bought it that way.
Once removed, it returned to 80801F12 (without the IC) and 1.35V RAM.
Now I have to reball again and figure out how to set it up correctly
I don’t understand why I don’t have problems with SB soldering while I do with RAM!

One issue with soldering the RAM chips maybe their place on the mainboard, which is designed to spread heat quickly.

I would reball and resolder the RAM chip. For testing I would press down one of the eight RAM chips, while trying to start the system. This for all eight RAM chips step by step. And see if the behaviour on start changes.

Thanks, yes, I’ll do that.
I hope I can figure it out.
To do better, should I get a preheater? Do you have any affordable models you can recommend?

A preheater makes the soldering a bit easier. A T8280 has a 280 x 270 mm work space with two rails to hold pcbs and cost around 120€.

Partially solved. There was a damaged pad under the RAM, I fixed it, put the RAM back in and now it reboots. But after 2-3 minutes it crashes. Maybe this IC is damaged or there’s another RAM IC to be fixed