8005000 UART, 1.1V is not being generated. MOSFETs and inductors seem fine. Infineon seems fine.
There’s a 5V main that doesn’t convince me. I found this suspicious area: sc220 in photo from 0V standby and 0V at power on. On the bottom is this little IC. Two capacitors beep to ground but they might actually have low resistance, I don’t know.Does anyone know the role of this electrolytic capacitor?
The cap is at the output side for USB C power. The line is switched on if system is started and if a device is connected. Depending on the device 5V or 12V are present.
Finding this fault is perhaps the most difficult I’ve ever faced!
What I’ve found so far:
Photo 1: Area F3503 (fuses F3501 and F3503 are OK)
The circled capacitor is shorted to ground but is receiving 5V power on. Could it be low resistance?
I injected 2V - 2A into this capacitor and with a thermal camera I detected Photo 2:
TI53-LD6K overheating
The two capacitors above (connected to pins 6, 7, and 8 out) are shorted to ground. Could this also be low resistance?
I checked to see what heats up when I press power on, and even though the blod lasts 1.5 seconds, in addition to the classic SSD controller - MOSFET VRM and SIE, this TI53-LD6K immediately heats up, reaching temperatures of up to 40°C in 1 second.
I checked the datasheet and found the following:
Pins 2-3 IN: 5V is briefly visible
Pins 6-7-8 OUT: same
Pin 4 EN: 0.36 Power on: IC does not receive enable, higher voltage required
Pin 5 FLT: 2.87V standby, 3.21 Power on
FTL: Active-low open-drain output, asserted during overcurrent or overtemperature conditions… I wonder… why is standby already active? IC fault? Leaked?
The chip at photo 2 is a high-side switch (Rohm BD82044FVJ) and usually used to switch the 5V for the second USB port. From my understanding nothing what should get warm or even hot.
Pins 6,7,8 are going to the front flex connector (5V_VUSB) and should read something around 1 kOhms resist / 500mV diode.
Maybe the chip itself is causing the short to ground or one of the caps.
At the USB C ciruit at photo 1 I’m not sure. The older versions have two separat chips to switch the power 5V or 12V. This version seems to have only one chip for the function. There should be a 5V and a 12V input (present in standby) and a output. The output should also read the same as the 5V_VUSB
At the USB C ciruit the 5V at F3503 is only present if powered on not in standby, like I wrote before.
Your marked shorted cap is on the 5V input side. The whole 5V_MAIN line seems to be shorted.
I would remove the high side switch you already diagnosed in getting hot and check again.
I’ll try it soon and update you.
I’m thinking that blod might even disappear if I remove the IC? Because if it controls USB, it should have low impact on booting.
I’m not sure if the FLT signal is missing for booting, when the switch chip is removed. But you can check and see, if the readings are back to normal. If so, it would a step closer to solve the not starting issue.
@Calvin those two guys also have 27 ohms of resistance on the IN pins (compared to another healthy board it must be 1k ohms) I’m trying to go back the 5V main route but where are they generated?
Yes. The first mosfet (high side) generates 5V controlled by the controller.
You can lift the 1R0 coil one side and inject 3.3V in pin 2 of the controller chip, 5V should appear on the right side of the high side mosfet.
Thanks! I’m taking a lot of notes from your teachings!
Going to the original UART 805000 code, I checked the VMR MOSFETs again, and on the test pad for pins 2 and 3 (SMOD and VCC), I still detected 0.28 ohms of resistance, while on the healthy board, they’re over 1kOhms.
What if one of these guys is shorted and pulling the 5V main supply?
From the photo, there are 4 + 1, it looks separate (but I don’t think so…)
On the last one (the one that seems separate), I have a higher resistance on coil R15.
In the diode, the 4 measure 0.02 while the last one measures 0.09.
Interesting. Sony changed from 2 + 5 to 1 + 4 at the newer PS5 slim version.
The single one is for CPU and the other four are for GFX.
Your error code 80050000 is pointing to the single one.
Yes, it is possible that a defect with the VRM can direct pull the 5V MAIN down. I guess you have to remove the single separat VRM to check if it change the readings on the 5V MAIN rail.
Update:
I removed the CPU MOSFET.
A couple of capacitors flew off, which I replaced, and a resistor that I can’t find (but I don’t think it’s skewing the measurement).
Nothing! The resistance on pins 2-3 is still 0.39 ohms, and the same goes for the F3502 area.
What do you recommend? I’m waiting for the TI53 to arrive, so I can replace that with a new one. (The one I removed was faulty anyway, because it was causing the pinouts to drop to 0.29 ohms (now they read 1kOhms).)