So, I asked around for friends to see if they had any Nintendo Switches that needed fixing and one of them said kinda. I was intrigued and asked why “kinda” and he admitted to screwing up when he tried to replace the LCD.The console still works in docked mode but sounds like he broke the locking mechanism that holds the ribbon cable onto the motherboard. Is there any way to fix this short of IDK using hot-air to remove the broken connector and putting a new one on?
Sure. Put the cable lock back on the connector. It s a pain in the a… work but it s makeable. Insert the ribbon cable, place the lock in the right orientation on the ribbon cable and push it carefuly in place.
Ok. I have a few more details. Just trying to figure out if I can get what I need to fix it before I tell him I can try and he drives out here.
“Sorry, man let me try to explain better.The lock piece works fine, but I can’t get the the ribbon cable into the slot. It looked like there were silver dots inside the piece at some points along it, which I think were pins that were out of place, maybe? The thing looked fine just that the ribbon cable had a harder time fitting in on the right side”
Here’s the part that worries me.
“I tried some hot-air to see if I could get it to fit a bit better on that side, I taped it off and didn’t go above 270C but it didn’t really help. As I mentioned it works fine in the dock so I’m almost positive it’s that loose fit on that lock port”
inner pins are bent, that’s why ribbon doesn’t gets in… !! you should remove the fpc connector and solder a new one…
Thank you both. You know of any guides? I assume I’ll need to use hot air like the rest of the board and charge port etc.
WOW. Couldn’t have timed my check in better. LMAO 3 minutes after you posted hehe.
if you are not experienced you better find a tech, replacing this is not easy…
Well I haven’t replaced one of these specifically before no, but gotta learn somewhere which is why I asked. The one who broke it says I can go ham. I’ve done a few other things, just not this. Was gonna get a friend who has done a lot more microsoldering to watch and help me put it right
you will need flux, hot air and a microscope.
put flux on the old connector and use the hot air from below (underneath the board below the connector) until the old connector can be removed with tweezers.
I usually run at 400C with low air flow and after 50 secs the connector can be taken off. hold the hot air about 1 inch from the board. Move the hot air side to side along the length of the connector.
once off clean off the old flux and check under the microscope and re-tin the connector pads with a soldering iron if needed.
put some fresh flux on the board, and using the microscope line up the pins (both sides of the connector) and then reflow from below again with the same settings above.
Once back on and cool, check under the microscope to make sure the pins are good.
Don’t put heat directly onto the connector as you will probably just melt it.
Don’t learn on a $175 plus mother board replacement cost used.