Hi, I have a Nintendo Switch OLED. It has a short circuit on the M92T36, which I’ve marked with the red line. I removed the capacitor and the M92T, but the short circuit is still there. Can someone help me solve it?
I would check the ‘pi3usb’ and on the backside the ‘EN’ chip.
The orange markings are the same shorted line.From my experience, I would put my money on the pi3usb. In some cases theone of the caps at the ‘EN’ chip failed.
just FYI “EN” chip/3.3v stepdown ic on OLED is MAX77801, no more EN lol
I shouldn’t post before m first coffee.
Hi, this fixed my problem. The problem capacitor was the first capacitor highlighted, on the left in the last image you posted.
Do you know what values those two capacitors in parallel are?
Also, I manged to launch the larger capacitor right next to P13USB, whilst trying to test its capacitance off the board. I think its an 0805. What value is this one?
Thanks
Should be same as previous model, 22uF_6.3v_0603
According to some schematic I found (cap values), its a 10UF cap. are you sure?
Also, I fixed the short circuit and replaced the caps (15UF on the shorted cap and 10UF on the cap next to P13USB. but still it’s only taking 0.2 amps at 5v. Any ideas? P13USB and M96T36 replaced. Shorted cap replaced. Shortcircuit is gone.
My apology, it is indeed 10uF big cap next to pi3usb. My coffee wasn’t kicking-in yet in the morning
recheck/redo your m92t if you dont see 15v PD but only 5v
Thank you very much for your answers, they have been very helpful. If I have a short in these capacitors and I already removed the MAX77812 but it continues, what should I check to fix it? There is a current draw between 0.46 to 0.50 amperes
how much exactly the resistance to ground you have there. Those red circled area is the 1v power rail to GPU/CPU, having low resistance like 20~100ohm is normal.
“There is a current draw between 0.46 to 0.50 amperes” you mean from charge port? If so it only tells you the M92T is good, quite pointless measure
My bad, had a long day today brain spinning slow at night.
If you measured 0.46~0.5A at 5v, m92t would not even be good.
Try measure some voltages instead of “I have xxx amp from charger” and understand what stage your device in, stage1, stage2, no backlight or no 3.3v at all
The resistance to ground measures 23 ohms, so that seems normal. The console doesn’t power on, that’s why I mentioned the current draw — it doesn’t go beyond that. What could be the reasons why it won’t turn on? Sorry, I’m still quite new to this
Have you fixed the short from post1? That was a 3.3v short on your circled m92t cap, and since you removed m92t the short remained so @Calvin showed you where would this short leads to.
I replaced the PI3USB and the short circuit disappeared
lets have a big picture of your switch. What was the initial issue when came in? Anything else done on the console before, i.e modchip install?
so after fixing the short I could still not get this thing working. I am drawing 0.02amps at 5v. I thought maybe my rework on pi3usb or M92T36 was faulty, so I redid them twice, even using new chips. Still nada. My usb tester says It’s putting 3.2v into CC2 and 0v into CC1.
Any ideas? I’m tempted to replace the BQ24193 chip as well for the sake of posterity. It’s hard to figure out what is wrong with this thing without a schematic. I do not have a working board for comparison.