Shorts after M92 replacements

Hello everyone,

I try to fix my first Switch lite, most of my soldering skills come from Arduino projects.

I got a broken Switch lite which suddenly stopped charging and was put aside by the owner.

I found at least one bend pin in the USB-C port an replaced the USB port and the battery due to the original battery voltage had dropped to ~ 2,5 V during storage.

After this I tried to start the Switch, it was taking 5V at 0,09A from a regular 5V USB power supply (no measurement of USB-C charging due to the lag on an USB-C power meter). The switch was starting and got over Nintendo and Switch Logo to an 2134-0501 Error.

I measured the M92T36 and found no shorts around, but I found the second pad by the USB-C ports to have low resistance of 15ohm.

Due to research I decided to replace the M92.
After replacement the 15 ohm “short” went up to 17 ohm but the Switch is still not charging. (~ 5V 0,10A). It boots now up to an 2101-0001 error and I found some shorts around the MAX77620H and MAX77812 and one around the M92 which I am pretty sure was not there right after soldering the M92 in place.

Do you have any suggestions how to proceed or is this board not fixable?

Thanks, and best regards!
Matthias

Somehow pictures in posts are broken:

USB
h_ttps://1drv.ms/i/s!AhD2s2YtrNL3qW-Of1K4lnSIRE6l?e=Pluuvk

M92
h_ttps://1drv.ms/i/s!AhD2s2YtrNL3qWxaRt_x0RaTAhfJ?e=hIqUpf

MAX77620H
h_ttps://1drv.ms/i/s!AhD2s2YtrNL3qW1Tc6hC8XkXuv8h?e=V01NDw

MAX77812
h_ttps://1drv.ms/i/s!AhD2s2YtrNL3qXMyFVgswQs37AW0?e=0hXujU

My bet is on M92 being bad still, either a bad joint or a dodgy chip. Low resistence on that rail of the main pmic is expected.

Thanks for the suggestion, I will double check an may be order an additional M92.

I removed the M92 and the short on the second capacitator is gone, so this is related to the m92 or my soldering.

The shorts on both max chips are still there even with a removed M92. Is this a normal behavior?

Edit: all shorts at the Max chips are ~20ohm shorts.

20 ohms is about right,at least on the main pmic on the back.

10 points for you. :ok_hand:

I replaced the M92 again (had to order a new) and measured everything after the M92 swap…

The switch is booting now fine and charges with ~12W from an USB C power supply (measured by 230v kill-a-watt)

Thank YOU!

I got some strange random buzzing noises from the speakers, but I did not investigate further right now.
May be this will get better after full assembly with the metal back shield in place…a first short test with the shield did not help. The buzzing is not an “cellphone tock tock tock” but sounds more like an broken chinch cable and is unrelated to motion. It even buzzes sometime while laying on a desk without interaction. Any Ideas?

As you can see on the picture, unfortunately the Display has a “bright area” in the left bottom corner which was not advertised. But it seems that’s the tradeoff on buying broken stuff.

Best regards

more like the lite has liquid damaged before. You should check around see any corrosion on small ic or ribbon cable connector

Does not look like liquid Damage to me, the indicatory where ok. It is possible that I messed something up while replacing the M92 Chip or USB-C Port. The M92 I replaced several times on this board…

I checked the Switch a couple times, removed the parental control and did a factory reset. → Everything except audio did work fine.

There was absolutely no sound output, regardless of speakers or headphones but sometimes these strange loud static noises from the speakers. As soon as the Volume is not set absolute zero there was also a slight buzzing all the time.
I doublechecked everything an cleaned the board again with Isopropanol- nothing changed. Then I decided to go over the Realtek chip and the surrounding capacitators and resistors with my iron to make sure every connection is ok and solid. Voila – sound works now. :slight_smile:

So I think this topic can be closed now, thank you so much for your support! :heart: