I have this Switch Lite that I’ve done some repairs on in the past already (it’s way past it’s warranty and Nintendo support doesn’t exist where I live).
I’ve replaced the LCD and the fan (on separate occassions) and everything is in proper working order. Though recently 2 buttons from the left side stopped working, the volume up button first then the right arrow on the d-pad followed some time soon.
I bought a new power/volume button and nothing changed so it must be with the circuitry itself. It then got weirder when the right d-pad arrow specifially stopped working. The other directions are fine. It’s just the right one.
I don’t really understand what’s probably wrong and if I must replace something, what would it be? Luckily, the left side is it’s own thing that just connects to the main motherboard via a ribbon cable so that’s not a tricky job if ever. Though, there’s also a chance that it’s just the ribbon or something and I could save time and money on that case.
I just want to ask for advice on what’s a good approach to this before to jump to conclusions and do unnessecary things.
Yeah Hard to Tell. If you opened it up multiple times there Might be a good Chance that the ribbon cable or it’s Connector is damaged.
Best would be a donor switch to swap parts around.
There is also a SMD Chip which is responisble for Inputs, it’s the 48 leg component on the top of the backside on the board.
Yeah I also thought of the chip as well but I didn’t want to get ahead of myself considering the other buttons are still working.
I guess I’ll just have to do some trial and error.
I also forgot to include in my original reply. Well I’ve been as careful as I can be when dismantling.
The volume up broke on it’s own way after any repairs when the system was just living peacefully. Though the right d-pad arrow stopped after I reopened the system after I got an orange screen (I just unplugged and replugged the battery and wi-fi).
When it started acting up I quickly checked the circuitry and nothing seems off. There is a good chance that it’s indeed the ribbon considering how tricky it is to reattach.
Id the cable is Not pluged in correctly, it May have broke or bent some Pins on the fpc Connector or May even have shortet something. I also saw some Connector with burn marks on them.
Ah I see. I’ll check for that as well. Is there a way for me to tell whether or not something’s damaged? I could try to inspect the likely damaged parts and see where the problem lies.
Okay big update. The right arrow’s working now. I don’t how or why but it just is now. I just reopened the system and just inspected the cables and connectors with a magnifying glass to see if there are visible damages.
I later gave up because everything looked rather pristine so I just put it all back together. To my surprise, the right d-pad arrow’s working now. I still don’t know the reason why it “broke” in the first place and I’d rather not conduct any experiments on that so that’s still strange.
The volume up button is still faulty but I can live without that. I can just use the software volume slider.
Nice. Sounds like you didn’t connected the ribbon cable correctly at first or it had some dirt in it.
The volume Problem can be a Problem with the small volume and Power Board, sometimes I had to change them.
Maybe the Button there is just dirty.
You can also replace this Board easily and you dont have to unplug any other cables.
HI, where is this SMD chip? I have a switch lite with no inputs working except the home button. Nothing else is working. No water damage, touch screen works fine. What would you recommend?
I have repaired a LOT of Switch Lites and have seen this a few times. It is always something in that long ribbon cable circuitry - many times a bad ribbon, sometimes a bad connector on the MB or the Daughter Board, if there were water damage it is many times a burned connector as mentioned previously. Almost never the volume/power switch sub-cable. Especially since the d-pad has been flakey - all the switches come back over that long cable.
The cable is available on amazon sometimes and always on ebay and alliexpress for a few bucks. I don’t borrow from another Lite because the bends and glueing of it to the frame makes removal less than easy (and likely to break it). REALLY EASY to test - take the new cable, use it to connect MB to DB without routing it - just let it hang above switch. Make sure you get the connections and orientations correct! And if it works, then its time to tear the frame out and carefully bend and double-sided tape the new cable in place.
The daughter board is also available from the same sources for ten or fifteen bucks - this can be borrowed from another Lite for testing.
If its the MB connector, try cleaning it first but if you see bent pins it is time for a new connector. Connector is available but you have to be able to hot-air microsolder to replace it.
Hope this helps
Thats why checking long cable connector continuity is mandatory for Switch lite when no display or what not. BEFORE you randomly reflow or worked on any ic, CHECK every pin (especially last 3pins on MB side, they are for backlight) continuity from MB to Daughterboard