Ok… we are getting somewhere…
What do I do now?
I think I have a problem with the EMMC module.
If I plug the Switch into my PC with the EMMC, it is recognised, but if I attach the EMMC and then plug the Switch into my PC then I get nothing!
That was supposed to say…
If I plug the Switch into my PC ‘WITHOUT’ the EMMC, it is recognised, but if I attach the EMMC and then plug the Switch into my PC then I get nothing!
Yeah that’s normal
So with the EMMC removed your basically forcing the console into recovery mode, it’s like “what do I do, I don’t have any boot device” 
to force it into recovery with the EMMC still connected you’ll need to get an RCM jig online.
The image from Biskeydump is indicating an issue with the EMMC module in some form or fashion. (which makes sense if the EMMC is not connected) - don’t be tempted to hotplug the EMMC module while the console is powered on it’s not worth the risk
I’d grab the jig online, I’d put the files for Hekate on the SD card and inject the payload when the jig arrives then see if you can backup the EMMC within Hekate.
Might be the EMMC is dead which would make it game over in most cases, occasionally it’s impact damage and a reball will resolve though it’s rare I’ve had maybe 1 out of every 100 like this
Your previous images don’t show any indicators of liquid so this is unlikely but sometimes the vias on the EMMC module PCB corode and cause open lines, so might be worth taken some close up photos of the EMMC module front and back.
One rail we haven’t checked (though again, I doubt it’s this) is your 3V3PDR, you can find this a few places but easiest is the large cap middle next to the P13 IC, can you provide the resistance to ground on this rail, set your meter to both the 200k position and after the 20K position
So testing the cap in the middle of P13USB I get the following readings on each side
20k - 0.03 6.88
200k - 0.0 9.1
Also pics of the EMMC module, the pin I question is the far right in the first photo, looks worse in the photos. I have cleaned, might need to add some solder.
I’ll pick up a jig and a RCM loader and see how I go…
Can you help me understand these measurments a little? is this a range your’e giving here with a space between the two, ie: 0.03K to 6.88K ? or? if yes which is the more consistent of the two, or is it fluctuating between the two?
I’d also suggest you get a decent auto ranging meter UT61E is a good choice 
This is black probe on ground (USB port) and red on left side of cap and then right side of cap
Ahh I’m with you
So typically and for future reference, 99% of the time the caps I’m asking people to measure are bypass / decoupling capacitors, as such they’re inherently tied to common ground (in most cases) one side, so the side of interest is the side which isn’t directly connected to ground so don’t worry about providing a seperate reading here
So somewhere between 6K and 10K is your result, this is somewhat on the low side but we’ll just put that down to your dodgy meter for the time being
And if not a dodgy meter what could potentially be the issue?
I’m 99% sure it’s your meter based on your previous measurments, these cheap manual ranging meters are hopeless.
But let’s say it’s not then under normal circumstances with my meter I’d make the conclusion something is dragging down rail most likely indirectly by something which has 3V3PDR in common
In your particular case I’m pretty sure this is going to be an EMMC related issue so I’d just wait until you can verify that in Hekate before going forward.
Hey Severence,
Looks like you know the switch well, would you like to answer me on this thread?
Tronicsfixforum[dot]com /t/nintendo-switch-shorted-near-max77620-chip/7584/10
Thank you.
Ok, I have ordered a couple of things so will take a couple of weeks to arrive, RCM loader and jig, new hot air/solder station, an EMMC reader and… a new multimeter! So will pop back on when they are and post some new results
Guess who’s back…
Just an update on where I am currently at with this Switch as I’ve had some strange progress.
Now, with the Switch if I plug in the power I don’t get any power indicator on the screen and it draws about 0.46amps. Now if I move to the PC and run TegraRCMGUI and plug the Switch in, it stays on No RCM. Now if I remove the EMMC module and then connect the Switch to the PC, then it gets recognised and RCM OK comes up. Now from here I can push Payloads to the Switch, the screen comes on and I can interact with the Payloads (touch controls don’t appear to be working so I have to use the controllers), they of course see that there is no EMMC module.
So I though the issue was with the EMMC module, so I bought a new EMMC module and an EMMC reader. I did buy the mmcblkNX which was able to read the EMMC module and copy the Boot0, Boot1 & RawNand, so the contents were there.
As a test what I did this time was remove the EMMC module and then connect the Switch to the PC, then it gets recognised and RCM OK comes up. Now I connect the EMMC module back onto the Switch (which I know is dangerous) and then I push a Payload to the Switch. The EMMC module is recognised by the various Payloads like TegraExplorer, Hakate and I was able to get the various keys using Lockpick_RCM and made backups. In one of the first reboots, it actually rebooted into the console so I could see the games etc I have not been able to get back into the console since then. Every time I reboot from a Payload it just goes to a blank screen. The I have to disconnect the battery, take off the EMMC module and plug it back into the PC and push a Payload again.
Using the Jig and RCM Loader just produces a blank screen.
So I’m a bit stuck at the moment… I keep coming back to the fact that the Switch will not be recognised by a PC when the EMMC Module is connected.
Any more thoughts on this one?
Correction… I can use the jig and the RCM loader push a Payload to the Switch, even with the EMMC Module installed!
I might try and do a System Wipe with TegraExplorer.
Sorry, maybe it’s been mentioned already but is there a particular reason your almost exclusively using Tegraexplorer? I would be using Hekate so you can verify other aspects
by the sounds of it the board has other issues and it’s a bit difficult to say what without more testing, visual inspection, rail measurments etc I could guess you may potentially have ram related issues but it’s entirely a guess
Good that you data is safe though
They are just the pics I took to show that I was able to get keys. I have been using Hekate for other actions.
I think the issue is to do with FW versions, I’ve sound someone with an identical issue in another forum but the thread is missing the steps as to how it was resolved as it seems like it was resolved via private messages. I will see if I can chase that down.
If I resolve it I will post back and close this loop.
Trouble here is, you mentioned it booted to the OS atleast once, so this is an intermittent boot issue… this type of behaviour could be caused by a bad EMMC IC which is corrupting data due to fault and may occasionally boot into the OS due to the EMMC or OS “repairing” said corrupted data… but, as you mentioned you’ve already transferred the data over to a new EMMC module so this can’t be the case.
So, other possible OS related issues might be, an OS/fuse mismatch (which you can check) but this is a non issue when booting HOS via Hekate. So that’s not your issue either.So with all that being said, a FW/OS issue is unlikely.
You need to perform a detailed visual inspection of the board looking for visual damage, check your primary rail resistances relative to ground (can be found on the forum) and ensure they’re good, check the console stats in Hekate (in particular fuel gauge) and following that and without any more info my best guess would be ram which can often times cause no boot or intermittent boot issues.
Hope that helps
In summary, I backed up the EMMC to a new EMMC module and tried that but was still having issues, I could push payloads but when I tired to reboot the Switch it wouldn’t boot. The next day I went back to it and turned it on and it booted into the OFW, not only that but I was able to put it to sleep and power it back on.
I reset everything and all is working.
1 Like