I have replied to an older post but it was over 8 months ago so I thought best make a new topic, so I have a Nintendo switch here that goes black after the first Nintendo logo.
I have replaced the M92T36 chip and checked pin 5/6 both are showing 3.3v when on charge.
I have also replaced the BQ24193 chip and I still have the same issue.
I have also replaced the Zif connector for the LCD and have checked the connections and it is fine (Nintendo logo briefly shows before a black screen)
I have checked the battery voltage and it does go up while on charge so this really has me stumped, does anyone else have any information that might be useful, I cannot find any shorts to ground on the board.
I had a Switch which doesn t want to start. Black screen after Nintendo Logo.
It was a missmatch of the burnt fuses (fuse count as downgrade protection) and the version of the firmware on the NAND. If it is an unpatched Switch I would check if Hekate is able to be loaded and if so, check the fuse count and update the firmware (matching the fuse count) with ChoiDujourNX.
Interesting, I will do that tomorrow when I’m back in the shop, surely if this is a switch that’s never been hacked before the fuse count should match and be genuine?
Trying to rcm was going to be my next route anyway, I just have a feeling it’s hardware related, I just don’t know where to go from here, my experiences with switches so far has been ports, the ic’s and screen replacements, on this I’m just stumped.
I don t know if it s possible to burn fuses without firmware update. Mine was used with custom firmware and had burnt fuses above the original firmware on the NAND.
Could you tell me more about this fuse? I had similar problem with my switch. But few times I managed to make it charge by 1.5A but then again went to steady 0.4A.
The fuses I ment, are only to prevent against downgrading to a lower firmware. At the normal booting the hardware fuse count must match the firmware version of the software. If not, it won t start.
From github /jonluca/0d7ce7da7c84de5163be0b49b3e319cc
This cap you marked has a low value in diode mode. Something around 70 mV. It s possible that your multimeter shows this value already as ground.
With my older multimeter (Resolution 10 mV) it shows the orange marked caps as shorted to ground. The same measurements with better multimeter (Resolution 100 nV) shows that there were no shorts, but low values.
