Switch freezes after Nintendo Logo and crashes EVEN WITH LINUX

Sorry, what is 1V8PDR ? :no_mouth:

yep, I took the cap off and measured it and its not shorted but back on the board its shorted again, battery/power is not connected.

1.8V (Primary Derived Rail) is where you short is.

Given the graphical glitches in TegraExplorer, my suspicion would be one of three things, Ram, SoC, or the two Max IC’s below and to the left of the SoC. Unfortunately all these things are a bit of a pain to conclusively test and tbh it could literally be anything on this rail at fault (which is near everything)

First try disconnecting you EMMC module and see if the short on that cap clears, if not, then check you haven’t got any bent pins inside your USB as a physical fault here could in theory put a subsequent fault on your 1V8PDR.

Failing that, I’ll have to draw up a few points for you to measure tomorrow

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Alrighty, I got my little workstation setup and ready to run some tests! SO, firsty I wanna mention that I am not at all a professional elictrician, and I am pretty much learning by doing, but I will do my best!

So I disconnected the emmc and the short is still there.

I measured both points with my multimeter set to 200R , and it fluctuates wildly (!) between 10R and over 200R. never stands still, keeps going up and down constantly.

I hope I can post images soon… it would be so much easier.

Before going further, switch your meter over to the 20K position and let me know your reading on that cap

OK,

having it set to 20K, it still fluctuates between 0.01 and 0.07, sometimes hold on 0.03 and if I hold it longer (which is really not easy with my shaky hands ^^) it stays at 0.01. I get the same results for both points, resistance to ground.

Ok, was just checking this wasn’t a meter issue.

Remove the board, flip over, measure resistance relative to ground at the points highlighted in the image. Note this is a Lite board but the points remain the same.

btw, was this a gradual fault or instantaneous? was there anything that happened which could have triggered it, for example a drop, liquid, bad USB etc?

OK will do.

I got the switch as it is and dont know what happened to it before. I figured somone had already tampered with it, as the CPU cover had been removed and put back on. Also, after a while the touch stopped working and it looks like someone also had tried stuff with that small board that connects the digitizer to the mainboard. A resistor there is missing. Thats all I know about the possible things that happened. It didn’t seem to have liquid damage. possibly something got fried while someone tried to fix / hack it… :thinking:

Hmm never a good sign.

tbh I’m surprised it’s still booting to hekate with a full 1V8 short.

Loading biskeydump payload shows a match, smiley face right?

When your able to post pics i’ll give the board a once over

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lets try this now

Yay =)))

not sure what you mean? I was fully able to retrieve keys with lockpick

btw this is the board after I replaced the chip. it was my 1st chip replacement and I blew away few parts but was able to put them back in place, poorly but it works :joy:

Okeydokey, my meter (set to 2k) reads:

purple–> .358
yellow–> .068
red–> .007

blue–> fluctuating wildly ^^

Can i suggest removing this IC for the time being, i notice some of the joints don’t look good (no offence i appreciate this is your first time) so would just like to take it out of the equation for now.

If you can take a few snaps of the rest of the board, particularly of the areas you suspect somebody else has messed with.

try using the Biskeydump payload, it’s a bit clearer in terms of showing you if your SoC and EMMC is a match, would be a bit pointless continuing with physical repairs if the EMMC is not a match :smiley: (for example, if somebody swapped it)

ah, you mean the emmc is not the console’s original one? ok, is there anything else you suggest me to measure before I put the whole thing together again and try biskeydump ?

can you switch your meter over to the 200Ohm scale,… i hate manual ranging meter :wink:

It’s always possible on used or prior repair attempt consoles

haha got it, sorry next time I will use the most precise one for each point

it measures around 60 Ohm here

yea got it, but the point is, at least Linux or Android should work, as they don’t really touch the emmc right?

Right, but they won’t work as a result of the hardware fault/s

I believe this is normal, purple i’ll have to double check

Also, after you’ve checked Biskeydump, can you remove SoC shield and also take a picture of thiis area, want to check if somebody hass messed with Ram

alrighty, here come some photos

I will put it all together now and check bisdumpkey.

and… I guess this here is a good sign ^^