Hi guys, hope you can help or guide me to what could be the problem here. In the past I installed the original SX Cores/Lites on some switches and all was good. Yesterday I attempted my first install on an OLED using the latest HWFLY chips with v3 arched ribbon.
Having completed the install I turned on the switch, yellow light was blinking for good 1 minute or so but the red light next to it was constantly on. It then flashed green and went all off, but could not see anything on the display.I disconnected the battery and reconnected it, this time when I turn it on, cyan or blue light would blink few times while the red light is constantly on, then it goes off and the red light stays on. I disconnected few points so the chip doesn’t come on and removed the ribbon from the chip end, turned on console and its booted as normal.
Next I decided to re-do the SP1 & SP2 points, connected everything back and when I turned on the console now I get a pink screen. I removed everything including the flex cable from SP1 & SP2 points but still pink screen.
I tested with multimeter, SP1 was giving between 9 and 11ohm, SP2 was dead, however you get continuity at the bottom of SP2 (it is as if the two connectors for the sides of the cap no longer there). I removed SP2 completely and still get pink screen.
I’ve ordered 100pcs 0201 1UF 6.3V X5R 20% Thick Film Chip Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors of Aliexpress now on the hope that replacing SP2 or SP1 too if necessary will get the console going again. Any help or advise on similar issues or tips would be really appricated guys.
I tried to add some photos but it kept saying I cannot embed media with my post!!
Not sure, but here it seems everything worked. As far as I know there a different versions of the bootloader installed. If Spacecraft V1 is installed on the HWFly it won’t work with an OLED. This could be the reason why you had a green light but have not seen something on the LCD.
Hi i have the same problem. I think its the CMD resistor. Ist looks at my OLED SWITCH broken. I read in Forum the value should be 3.5Kohm. Sowas anyone the same value? Can anyone read the value with a Multimeter?.
It’s a 4.7k Ohms, size 0201 Thin Film Resistors, SMD. This is what you need if your burnt the resistor or knocked it off trying to solder a wire to it. I’ve fixed a few of these and every time the purple screen goes away.
You can take it off with just an iron. Use a big tip, size of resistor, put a blob of solder on it so it heats both ends of the resistor and lift it off, becareful you dont knock anything else off. Then you can mix leaded solder on the pads with a smaller tip, then wick one of the pads clean. Install the new resistor by heating the unwicked pad then get one end on. Then solder on the end on to pad that doesnt have any solder on it.
A hot air rework station (dont use a heat gun, those might blow off other components as you may not be able to fine tune the amount of air) would be much easier tho.
Hey @johnny_debt, thank you for that quick answer, can I ask you what wires you used because it felt like, I used wires that were way to big for installing them to the small points. I couldn’t find any smaller ones tho. And when using a hot air rework station, I do not use solder right? Do I need like some sort of solder paste? I’ve seen a few videos to it.
I used 36awg, although you can go smaller. Ive seen folks use 40awg and it’ll still work. With hot air rework station, after removing the resistor you can simply place the new one back in. If you find that you dont have enough solder on the pad then you flux and tin with an iron then heat back up with hot air and place resistor on.
Hey, sorry to bother @johnny_debt , but I wanted to make sure, which resistor I needed. Would the RC0201FR-074K7L from YAGEO be fine or do I need another one? Does it matter if it’s Thin/Thick film
