Let me know if you need thep step files. Although it is super simple and a little bit specific for my steel plate.
Anyway the coming days I will make the ultimate version with cool tightening setting.
Thanks appreciate it. I think Iāll just start from scratch but base it on your design, sometimes itās easier than modifying an existing design as Iāll have to adjust the rod and arm diameter and my 3D printer is not calibrated so Iāll have to manually adjust all tolerances and i think I will likey add some linear bearings for the rods too⦠may aswell, got 10+ leftover from building the printer
This is also my plan. Linear bearings and a leadscrew + nut in the middle to adjust the height/tension by a knob. Maybe a simple locking mechanism to stop it from spinning.
You where right. These BEST balls are smaller than they should be. There are two balls in almost all the holesā¦
But even with this one the balls stuck to the stencil. :\
Yeah they do seem to be a hair smaller than they ought to be, though itās also possible the holes in the stencil are a hair bigger than 0.35mm and making it seem that way.
I have some 0.4mm ābestā solder balls on order, will see if theyāre a better fit
Yeah itās a royal pain, you have to tilt the stencil and jig at a 45 deg in order to see and brush over with a dry cotton swab in order to knock the secondaty balls out.
Have you received the other jig yet? just to rule that out as the potential issue
It will likely permanently deform the stencil as the steel is considerably thicker as compared to direct heat stencils.
Bit mythed tbh but itās the only other variable now that isnāt the same as my setup.
You could try running over the stencil with a steel brush, perhaps the holes have burrs or something, then after run over it with wire wool then an abrasive sponge (dish sponge or scotchbrite) then after give it a polish with some >1000G abrasive paper or polishing compound.