USB C Charging Port Replacement

Nintendo Questions Nintendo Switch
#1

Hello all,
Glad I found this forum, looks like you guys really know your stuff.

I have recently replaced a USB C connector on a clients Switch. I’m not too familiar with the switch. I don’t have the genuine charger so am using a Samsung phone charger to test it. When plugged in the screen lights up, top left corner the charging icon appears (battery shows a small amount of charge).

If powered on I get the Nintendo splash screen then turns off again. Even leaving the Switch charging for a few hours, the battery indicator doesn’t seem to fill.

I’m quite confident in my repair. Pre heated the board, lifted the old connector (without lifting any pads) and I believe have successfully reflowed a new connector.

Two areas for concern though:

  1. My PCB clamp put quite a bit of pressure on the board, it did bend slightly when pulling at the connector.
  2. The large 2R2 resistor did lift slightly (looks like it came away from the small plates either side).

Have not done any further testing but just wanted some advice please. Especially with regards to Non charging, using a phone charger etc.

Any advice appreciated.
Thanks

#2

Can you highlight the 2R2 resistor your referring to?

I would recommend removing the connector at a later stage which should relieve any board warp and after follow my instructions in the below thread in order to properly install a new USB connector. There is quite a bit of misinformation on youtube and online comments & tutorials etc, USB replacements should be a two step process - 1:pads and after 2:ground tab slots (through hole) no downward pressure required and using this method is the next nearest compared to original board assembly with the tools and equipment we commonly have avaliable (hot air etc) Installing this way will prevent board warp and avoid more serious issues down the road

Prime candidate is BQ IC at this stage, is console unpatched?

#3

@Severence thanks for the reply
Pic of the resistor, highlighted in red

2r2.PNG

Yeah did use low temp solder and tinned all of the pads with it, nice pillows lol. Removed excess with low temp flux. Didn’t apply too much pressure to the new connector.

Will try a new BQ IC, easier option.

Console S/N is in the range “possibly patched” but I wouldn’t know.

Thanks for the tips

#4

The component with the marking “2R2” is a coil/inductor. If it shows continuity, it should be ok.
What voltage could be measured at the usb port vbus pins?
What current is drawn by the usb port?

USB C VBUS
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#5

@Calvin thanks for the reply.
Oops thanks for the clarification on the coil. It measures 0.22R so yes should be ok.
Charging fuse tested - ok
Checked battery = 4.16V on both red
Charge for 30 mins now = 4.18V so guess it is charging.

Sorry not sure on an easy way to measure Vbus pins?
Also waiting on a USB power meter in the post since im not splicing cables/dont have a breakout to check current drawn.

Maybe the USB connector has a short?

#6

I don t think that the usb port is shorted at the vbus. The battery voltage is rising. My guess is that the charger doesn t speaks correctly with the m92t36, so it isn t fast charging.

The testpoint .510 and the 0Ohm resistor are also vbus. What voltage is at this point?

#7

Your battery is amost fully charged which makes determining faults without an ammeter difficult, you might want to leave the battery connected to the console then prompt to boot then remove cable and allow battery to discharge a little or alternatively you can discharge the battery externally with a resistor.

An increase of 0.02V over 30mins doesn’t indicate any charge current (just stray), but as the battery is full or near full that would be normal, so discharge the battery a little and retake those voltage measurements over time.

If you used low melt solder here then it’s highly recommended the connector is removed and you wick it up and instead use regular leaded solder (63/37, 60/40) . Low melt solders are not designed for these applications, doesn’t have the strength nor current carrying capacity (and a litany of other issues as mentioned in the previous linked thread). Low melt solders should be reserved to aid in solder removal only (braid/wick) particularly in your case as your doing the repair for a client…you don’t want it coming back with a more serious fault

#8

Hi @Severence @Calvin thanks both for your replies.

I now have an inline USB meter and a better microscope.

I am reading 5.1V at the Vbus pins (510)
Switch is only drawing 0.4A, very low?

Re soldering. What paste would you recommend?

Thanks

#9

One final question, if the battery is already pretty well charged, why can I not power up the console? Thanks

#10

Wouldn’t recommend using a solder paste unless you have a dedicated stencil suited for the size and pitch of the USB pads - If you do have such a stencil, then 63/37 Leaded solder paste can be used, just buy the paste from a dedicated electronic distributor such as Mouser, Digikey TME etc etc… and avoid the stuff frrom china, apply paste on direct heat stencil on USB pads etc and bring to reflow temp, when solidified remove stencil and follow my steps (above and in the linked topic) to properly install the USB connector.

If you don’t have a dedicated stencil, then use 63/37 leaded solder wire (from above distributors) and tin the pads (pillows :slight_smile: ) and follow my instructions here -Need to vent and question about charge port replacement

The install should be a two step process and not a one shot process.

Does it do the following on your USB current meter
0.4A then after a few seconds drop to 0.0A then back to 0.4A or is it a constant 0.4A?

It’s because the battery/power source isn’t your primary issue

#11

Its a constant 0.4 A

#12

Thanks, have some leaded solder will try that

#13

What is the primary issue?
Sorry for the noob questions

#14

Will require further diagnosis.

Simple stuff first, voltage on pins 5 and 6 on M9 IC (battery connected and prompted to boot with cable)

If you can take a pic front and back of your board too it will help

#16

Hmm doesn’t sound right… pin 5 is ok but pin 6 is supplied from DC/DC converter whose output should be fixed at 3.3V

You sure?

#17

My bad, still working my way around switch board. I was measuring the BQ IC. M9 5&6 are both 3.3V

#18

Oh, good :slight_smile:

With battery and cable connected what are the voltages measured either side of highlighted resistors?

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#19

Thankyou for your patience, middle resistor 1.8V. Upper and lower (outer resistors) 0V

#20

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A couple of the charger port pins dont look too good, not moving when pushed but not good joints

#21

Thanks, I’m operating from memiry atm and don’t have a board or my documentation in front of me. So I’ll have a think and get back to you tomorrow regarding this.

Will say, on boards that typicaly require a USB replacement that then exhibit further faults or boot issues I change M9 IC and then after BQ IC’s as a matter of course, as it’s quicker than testing them.

If In the meantime if you want to troubleshoot further though hit my profile and go over my previous post replies in the switch category as diagnosis and the relevant key rails all remain largely the same. Same goes for Calvins posts.