Advice on replacing a ripped track and find missing capacitor value around the

Nintendo Questions Nintendo Switch
#1

Hello guys, I need help with two things. Firstly, I need some advice on replacing a ripped track. I was replacing the M92T36 IC when I decided to put solder on the pads to get a better connection. I ended up adding to much solder which resulted in removing a pad and a capacitor which I don’t know the value of. I’ve seen a few videos on the solution to solving a ripped track issue but wanted to confirm the size of the wire that is need. Is 0.1 mm the correct size to use? Secondly what would the value of this miss capacitor be? I’ve highlighted it in red.

Thank you
imgur(.) com /a/ aPwlCZY

#2

the size of the jumper wire is 0.1mm. the missing capacitor is 0402 1uf. you could jump wire it to the top right resistor if it is easier. probably need to run leaded solder at 425 to 450 C to fluff the pads and solder wick the center ground pad.

Imho, I would use JL02 tip to jump between the m92 pin and the resistor top right instead of trace repair and solder mask. I guess you dont own a rework station?

#3

Hello De9ed, thanks for the reply.

How would adding a jumper work when the pad for IC needs to be there? Won’t there be no connection for IC when I put it back on? Also for the capacitor what is voltage for it as well? I bought more solder wick last night since the one I was using wasn’t too good in quality. Lastly, I do have a rework station since I was able to take off the IC. My problem is with realigning the IC onto the pads correctly. I tend to see under my microscope that they’re off by a few millimeters which is frustrating. Any advice?

Thanks again.

#4

The pad connects to the resistor at the top right corner, so a jumper wire would work. So the procedure is to reflow a new m92 chip on it first then jump wire to the resistor top right. (I have attached a video from tronicsfix, timestamp at 21:06)

I think anything 6.3V and above should work.

This was my mistake a while ago, jkyoho and Severence helped me out.

I should of figure out you had a rework station to take out the chip. I was not thinking right haha.

As long it is center “enough” you could also touch up with a d24 or JL02 tip. I usually like JL02 to get into the tight area ( such as left side of m92 beside the resistor). I like to mix the unleaded solder with this solder below to lower the temperature required to melt. I also like to use this solder for fpc joint, since I can reflow at 250~300 degree from the top without damaging the fpc/components around it.

I can tell Severence will hate me for using “low melt” haha.


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000031703033.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dFEqemb
#5

Hello again De9ed, based on your solution for solving the ripped pad, do you think that the solution would work? First I would have to put the IC back on and then route the jumper to the resistor? I have my doubts that it will make a connection. ^^;

I bought a set of solder iron tips a while back but my tips are not that small for touching up the IC. As of last night, I ordered the wire and I’m looking for the capacitor. I will keep updating over here with current events.

Thanks again for the reply. I’m happy that I took a chance to ask over here and I am seeing a reply.

#6

It would work, I have tested continuity on a good board, and it does have connection between these 2 points (The pad and the resistor)

#7

Alright, I’ll try that. I’m waiting for my wire to arrive. it should come in a few weeks. I’ll come back to this thread when I have got the parts and attempt the repair.

Thanks again De9ed!

#8

Hello to anyone who decides to check this thread again!

It’s been a very time but I’m finally back. These months leading up to now have been a long journey with the switch that I have been trying to fix. I really destroyed the area where the M92T36 is where tracks 1,2,3,4 have been but I somehow got the switch to power on again by using jumpers from the components to certain areas for the chip. I gave multiple times but I can’t seem to fully give up whenever I get emails about this site in my inbox XD. My switch is still not working but I’m seeing life in it.

The switch is having a weird issue where the switch goes to the Nintendo logo and shuts off.Whenever I do not have a battery connected to the motherboard and just the voltage/amp reader, it will sometimes pull 0 amps but when i connect the battery and start to measure it then the amps will go fluctuate from 0.39 to 0.41 amps. At this moment I’m going to let it charge overnight and see what happens. I’ve also replaced the USB port twice, replaced the BQ21493, P13USB and the M92T36 a few times this year too.

Hopefully its not too late to get a response but I hope to hear from someone soon.

See you all and really sorry for the long read.

tl;dr : switch goes to the Nintendo logo and shuts off.