Thanks, i will give a little feedback after 1h Zelda play with it, usually that game is my stability benchmark 
and it went ko, crash with 21001-001, weird behavior with artifacts in the picture, then bluescreen, then back to life, but 0 stability, sometimes i have the backlight on but nothing on the screen, sometimes i donāt have anything on the screen and no backlight, but the console is on (i can hear the menu clicks), sometimes i have the screen but no touch, it is different each and every start
Whatās charging current looking like throughout this?
Would ordinarily be M92 related, though I think in your case you potentially have two issues
Iād check both the backlight and LCD connector and ribbon cables, check there is no bent pins in the connector and there is no breaks or corrsion on the ribbons themselves, check the solder joints are good etc, following prompting to boot try wiggling the LCD backlight ribbon and see if the symptoms change
This could be as a result of LCD related issues and/or Ram or SoC related issues (sometimes in rare cases PMIC issues) if you find the above LCD/BL etc doesnāt change anything, remove the SoC/Ram shield (twist latches outwards with blade all the way round) and put slight pressure on the Ram ICās and try prompting to boot and see if it resolves the BSOD/Artifacting issues.
Hi there, all good ?
Damn, this is definitely the most difficult Switch i ever encountered in my young fixing console life 
I think this time it is good, beleive or not, the problem was ā¦ 2 broken coils. One on top of the Realtek IC and one on the back near the āAZJ 734ā component.
I took them from my BSOD board, but they were different model, looks much more robust. By the way, as i would like to fix this BSOD console one day, is there a way to know the value of the coil on the board so that i can replace them ?
I just played Zelda for a hour, looks stable, battery drain is correct, 72% remaining after one hour. Finally, i made it
Hey yeah not bad, how you getting on with the house?
Interesting failure mode, if this coil were open youād lose your primary 3V3 rail which if that was the case the console wouldnāt boot so not so sure this was relating to your previous fault symtoms Iām afraid (no screen but hearing console sounds etc)
This one is specified in the datsheet as a 1 Ī¼H inductor and as per the datasheet theyāre specifying one of these
Though, pretty much any of the correct value, size and form factor will do
Donāt think Iāve identified this IC but on a Mariko board a similar form factor Max IC part is also using a 1Ī¼H incudctor so chances are this one is too
Good stuff, 
it continues
Not bad, all water pipes finalized, isolation to be projected next week, all looking good so far thanks for asking
Thanks for the feedback about the inductors. Will check that out.
However the console is still not 100% stable. In game, no issue, i played Zelda for more than 2 hours, it worked. But if i leave the console in standby, battery drain quite fast (around 4% each hour) and may sometimes not come up, i have to reset by pressing long the power button and power the console on again 
Interestingly, i have another console where i had exactly the same issue (i still have it by the way i kept it in case one day i could fix it). Tried another battery , same symptom, basically, discharge normally while on, no difference compared to a 100% working console, but in standby fast drain.
Good stuff, getting there!
Hmm this could be a couple of things, either itās genuine battery drain as a result of an issue on the board such a shorted / dragged down rail (most likely not a primary one if thatās the case based on your previous measurments) to check this I would fully charge the battery then when the OS reports a low percentage turn the unit off, disconnect the battery and check the voltage manually to see if there is any truth to that
Or itās false battery drain being misreported as a result of fuel gauge issues, there was a thread recently here where I covered this and a few more serious issues which act like fuel gauge fault symptoms but are quite a bit more serious
Another thing you can do is note the battery percentage in the OS then turn off the unit, wait a few seconds and then prompt it to boot and take a look at the battery percentage again, if itās not within a couple of percent of your previously noted reading then itās likely fuel gauge (or the more serious issues mentioned above) which is the problem
Sure, after projection, heated floor to install and then concrete floor, tiles and we are good to go for all the smaller stuff.
I havenāt checked manually the battery voltage yet, but i read the thread you are referring to, it is that one right : Fuel Gauge IC issue but fuel gauge not at fault
What i can tell so far, without having taken a part the console yet since (no time for), is that i donāt have the exact same symptom. I launched Hekate to check, and my fuel gauge is reporting good and valid data. But basically i think the battery drain is gone, afaict i havenāt got it anymore since a couple of days. Now i am left with sometimes the error 21001-001. I will replaced once more the M92 and hope for the best.
Hi there, again me
36h without anymore crash. What i found interesting is, that both joycon rails and both joycons had corrosion on their pins. After cleaning everything, i didnāt got anymore stability problem.
I noticed that the crashed were related to that somehow because one joycon was having a failing lock, and when i was taking the console, i was detaching it a little bit, and sometimes it was triggering the crash 21001-001. I know it looks completely unrelated, but since i replaced the lock, noticed the corrosion and cleaned everything , i ran without any issues since then.
No that makes total sense, if for example the corrosion was shorting out or dragging down the joycon supply rail/s then this is what I mentioned earlier about it not being one of your primary rails but a sub rail etc
Iād still run through the tests I mentioned above for the fuel gauge though just in case, you never know
Would you still if no more drain ? I have a normal percentage drop now in standby as well.
Iād just verify the percentage remains within a couple of percent over x10 power cycles, if it does each time then itās likely fine
If on the other hand for example it reports 95% and you power it off and then back on again and itās reporting 90% then you can safely say there is a fuel gauge related issue
It went fine with the a bit more than 10x power cycles, i lost 2-3 % i think after all of them.
Looks finally over, customer came back to collect it, finally