It is kind of strange, if I give the advice ‘please measure the mentioned caps and compare it’ and you state ‘it is pointless’.
The lowest caps on the back of the soc have 70 and 90 mV and if he can measure something around this, there is no short and the assumption that the caps are shorted is false. If he can measure something else standing out lower there might be a problem.
I got the point, that beneath a low value in diode mode the meter will also start to buzz. But if I know I m testing a low resistance point that can be mistaken in continuity mode, I m looking at the values. Or does other multimeter cuts off?
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Yeah some meters can do. Also the forward voltage between meter brands can be wildly different, and these low impedence rails can show drastically different diode mode readings as a result, which is why I said it’s pointless on this rail.
The other reason, as I mentioned above, if there was an actual short on this rail, then the typical failure mode is typically “high” ohms short to ground, not a dead short, so an 8 ohm short or a 20 ohm short to ground, in such cases it’s highly likely that depending on the meter you would get a “good” diode mode reading (dependent on the meter), you’d move on not realising the actual fault.
In contrast, while resistance mode can vary from one meter to the next due to the differences in forward voltage etc it’s generally more consistent
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Ok, good to know.
I made the diode mode map with a UT61E. And till now I hadn t have problems with other diode mode maps which where for example made by a Fluke 17B.
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Hello,
Thanks for the feedback.
So I have this value on the “positive” terminal of the capacitor and 0 on the negative.
I will read all the answers and follow the advice to see what happens.
I know that it is difficult for regulars with a very good knowledge of electronics to help newbies, I am sorry that I do not have great knowledge and I try to learn and progress continuously.
Thank you to you for the time spent anyway.
Sincerely,
Jonathan
No no, I took the diagram of tension control which is on the forum. It is indicated the different voltages which is on the motherboard. So I have all the voltages that seem to be present except the 5V.
Small return:
I checked the diode and no worries, it is not burnt.
I checked the capacitors and they don’t seem to be a problem either.
Is it possible to control the 5V line at the output of the M92T? I changed it and suddenly I have a doubt about it …
Maybe it makes sense to eliminate this component first?
Thanks again !
What is your reading (diode mode and resistance) at the 5V line?
If I m right, the 5V for the lcd is generated in the ‘8316’ ic. This ic is powered by the sys-line and not by the m92t36. The bq24193 manages the power for this line. From battery or usb-c.
Please check the if SYS is present:
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SYS seems to be present , i have the ~4V. I’m not sure if it’s normal but i find 15V on 5V points.
I check the TS , value is ok.
In diode mode, i find “.785” on 5V point.
Just a heads up that the 8316 IC does not get told to enable either the +5 output or the inverted output (-5) until the SoC has cleared the initial boot step.
As such, I think you likely have an issue elsewhere and the 8316 (5V rails in question?) may be a red herring.
You can verify this by checking if the output enables are high (1V8) if they’re high but you don’t have the 5V outputs then the IC is to blame, if the enables are low then the issue lies elswhere.
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VBUS is this what is supplied by the usb-c input. The original power supply delievers 15V and I mostly test with 5V. So it is fine.
The 785 mV at your first testpoint beneath the diode, is telling me that this line is not shorted. And like Severence said the problem might be somewhere else.
What ampere readings can you see if you plug the usb c cable and start, without the battery?
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Hello,
On red mark, i have 4.20V. So if i’m right, 8316 isn’t to blame ?
Thanks 
Hello,
If i don’t plug the battery, i have 15V and 0.053A. With battery 14.92V and 0.492A.
Thank you
So that’s your SYS rail, which provides VIN to the 8316 IC.
If you look at the photo above, you can see where I have labelled Vout-1 and Vout-2, both represent the outputs produced by the 8316 IC, you can try measuring the voltage at these points, I expect you’ll have 0V like elsewhere,
you’d then check to see if the SoC is telling the 8316 to turn on these outputs by checking the voltage at the enable lines which can be seen in the photo.
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Ok,
So i check the lines as you tell me but it’s not similar than my motherboard. I think i find the “test” point but still 0v …
Thanks
Hello,
Have you an idea for my motherboard please? I read on another website that could be the Nvidia chipset directly and it doesn’t have solution for that.
What do you think about that?
Thank you very much.
Most of the time issues such as this revolve around the common failure ICs (M92, BQ, P13)
I would be checking your soldering on all these ICs, as I often see boards where people have attempted replacements on these ICs and have inadvertantly bridged pads together or pads are open not connected to the board. If your not sure, you could remove the M92 IC as the console will oridinarily still boot without it, battery only.
I believe you can do the same thing with the P13 IC and the console will still boot without it.
Failing that, if you suspect the SoC then you can follow along with this thread here,
and let me know the resistance to ground on the main rails on the inductors surrounding the PMIC.
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Hello,
I’ve had enough of that damn Switch…
So I unsoldered the M93, nothing on the battery display, I removed the P13, no better. I reassembled everything neatly, no short circuits on the outgoing tracks and still nothing in the end.
I will therefore declare this console definitively HS. I wasted a lot of your time and I don’t think it makes sense to keep looking.
I suddenly bought another used one, broken down of course, which I will try to repair. It works perfectly but the screen turns off after 5-10 minutes without explanation. What’s crazy is that the console works, we have the noises, the touchscreen works but no longer the image. If I reboot the Switch, everything comes back for 5-10 minutes. Maybe I will open a new topic suddenly?
Thanks again for everything, it’s really nice to find such community support!
Not at all, we are all learning 
who knows you might come back to this one later with a fresh set of eyes and figure it out, if it’s not one of the three common failure modes on the ICs I mentioned the approx 0.4A braindead can be quite a few more things which is a tough thing to narrow down remotely, it surely helps if the console is unpatched.
This sounds to me like it’s backlight driver related or backlight ribbon damage, one of the two
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I have a video of this new unit but i can’t post here cause restrictions…
Maybe it’s better if i open a new thread ?
I change the LCD two times without more success. It’s really strange because sometimes, the image come back for few seconds or minutes.
Do you think i need to change the LCD driver or the LCD is bad quality ? It come from the same reseller…
Thank you :))
Hello,
For the first unit, i close the case because i don’t find the solution. Maye the SoC is faulty and it’s under my skills.
The second unit, that was just the LCD… I try with an original and all is fine
Thank you all for your support.
I’ll open a new thread for an old “case” soon. Thank you so much and have a good day.
Jonathan