I am newbie to repair and I bought a faulty Switch off Ebay to see if I can repair and learn something along the way. I watched tons of various fix videos on Youtube but I am very much a beginner so please bare with me.
The problem : No power/no screen at all. Tried the official charger and few other ones and nothing.
The seller said it was faulty USBC port, but I saw no damaged pins and it looked fine. But the Nintendo Charge was bent and this probably what caused the issue. But the charger does actually work.
I checked it on a AMP meter and it gives 0.02. Taking it apart no obvious signs of corrosion or damage or even burnt parts. No water damage either. Using a multimeter I can see the motherboard gets 4.92v ish max at certain points.
I checked for continuity and found a few shorted fuses(?) - see pic I’ve circled them.
In short P13USB is fine no shorts detected around it.
M92T36 has 2 shorts
And another other parts also have fuses blown = see pic - not sure what they are called. Everything else seems fine short wise.
Interestly if I touch the 2nd pin on M92T36 with a prob I notice amp goes up to 0.08 but nothing happens.
Guess my next steps would be to be remove the IC chips M92/P13 and see if shorts disappears and take it from there?
btw i cant seem to post pics? is this because i am new?
I was just testing some of the capacitors under the main chips (picture) and i have discovered a few more circled blown. Doesn’t this usually mean its a apu/cpu issue and therefore not fixable?
To check am using the multimeter correctly I set it up like so. Touched the probes on each side of the capacitors and on all the shorted one in red (above) i get a reading of 58.5.
Though will say, while kapton is very good at tolerating high temperatures it pretty ineffective at heat shielding…
You know those metal flimsy knockouts you get on desktop tower expansion sockets? now they make for great temporary heat shielding, and they’re super easy to bend to conform to certain applications, for example to cover a plastic connector thats perhaps nearby to an area that requires rework
So I removed the m92 ic after a struggle I must admit. I am using the 8582D in the end it took 470c and airflow of 3.5 to come off. I tried lower temps of around 400c and 2 airflow but it wouldn’t budge. I was using rf800 flux and applied several times.
The shorts is gone around the m92 which is good! But all the other shorts are present. I dont have a replacement chip yet but can pick up one locally. Given we have shorts still i guess it wouldn’t work even if i put a new m92?
Btw some of the small caps moved see attached. I guess i need to reflow them?
I had a similar board problem. My fix was the max chip under the emmc. That chip cause 4+ shorts on my board, one one m92 chip, once by end chip, one on max chip under emmc, and two on max chip next to the left speaker and couple under back side of cpu. I actualky remove all the other chip first and short was still present until I remove chip under emmc all the short disappear.
I have low success rate pulling that max chip off another board. It’s better just to buy a new one that comes with new balls, remove solder on the board and place new chip in place. Make sure the chip has the same orientation and the bottom right tip of chip is directly at the little circle bottom of the arrow
