Ninendo Switch - No Power / Repair Advice Please

[rikabi]

Hello guys,

I am newbie to repair and I bought a faulty Switch off Ebay to see if I can repair and learn something along the way. I watched tons of various fix videos on Youtube but I am very much a beginner so please bare with me.

The problem : No power/no screen at all. Tried the official charger and few other ones and nothing.
The seller said it was faulty USBC port, but I saw no damaged pins and it looked fine. But the Nintendo Charge was bent and this probably what caused the issue. But the charger does actually work.

I checked it on a AMP meter and it gives 0.02. Taking it apart no obvious signs of corrosion or damage or even burnt parts. No water damage either. Using a multimeter I can see the motherboard gets 4.92v ish max at certain points.

I checked for continuity and found a few shorted fuses(?) - see pic I’ve circled them.

In short P13USB is fine no shorts detected around it.
M92T36 has 2 shorts
And another other parts also have fuses blown = see pic - not sure what they are called. Everything else seems fine short wise.

Interestly if I touch the 2nd pin on M92T36 with a prob I notice amp goes up to 0.08 but nothing happens.

Guess my next steps would be to be remove the IC chips M92/P13 and see if shorts disappears and take it from there?

btw i cant seem to post pics? is this because i am new?

[rikabi]

[Severence]

Make sure to disconnect battery and power prior to testing continuity, diode or resistance on the board. (if you didn’t already )

If you still measure a short on those caps by M9 IC then remove the IC and retest and see if the shorts cleared, if not, then remove P13 IC

We’ll worry about the other problems later

[rikabi]

Hi Severence,

Yes I took the battery out before doing anything

I am waiting for some Kapton tape and a clamp and I will attempt to remove the ICs

Will keep this posted updated.

[Severence]

ok

Though you can easily remove M9 IC without kapton, just point your nozzle away from ram shield

And a clamp is not necessary … infact i’d recommend not using one

[rikabi]

I was just testing some of the capacitors under the main chips (picture) and i have discovered a few more circled blown. Doesn’t this usually mean its a apu/cpu issue and therefore not fixable?

[Severence]

Whats the resistance?

[rikabi]

To check am using the multimeter correctly I set it up like so. Touched the probes on each side of the capacitors and on all the shorted one in red (above) i get a reading of 58.5.

[Severence]

That’s fine, your readings seem normal

[rikabi]

Great! Hopefully that k tape will arrive tomorrow or this week so I can remove the ics (i prefer to be safe ). Post has been slow theses days!

[Severence]

I suppose better to be safe than sorry.

Though will say, while kapton is very good at tolerating high temperatures it pretty ineffective at heat shielding…

You know those metal flimsy knockouts you get on desktop tower expansion sockets? now they make for great temporary heat shielding, and they’re super easy to bend to conform to certain applications, for example to cover a plastic connector thats perhaps nearby to an area that requires rework

[rikabi]

I think I got a couple of does laying about somewhere - you referring to where the HDD/DVD might have go?

[Severence]

nah, you know where you’d put your PCI/PCIE cards GPU’s etc the knockout tabs on the cheap towers

@rikabi

you referring to where the HDD/DVD

But i mean sure, it will be a similar gauge steel here too, if you can cut/break a piece off that’ll work too

[rikabi]

ohh gotcha ya. might have some…

[rikabi]

So I removed the m92 ic after a struggle I must admit. I am using the 8582D in the end it took 470c and airflow of 3.5 to come off. I tried lower temps of around 400c and 2 airflow but it wouldn’t budge. I was using rf800 flux and applied several times.

The shorts is gone around the m92 which is good! But all the other shorts are present. I dont have a replacement chip yet but can pick up one locally. Given we have shorts still i guess it wouldn’t work even if i put a new m92?

Btw some of the small caps moved see attached. I guess i need to reflow them?

[Integ209]

I had a similar board problem. My fix was the max chip under the emmc. That chip cause 4+ shorts on my board, one one m92 chip, once by end chip, one on max chip under emmc, and two on max chip next to the left speaker and couple under back side of cpu. I actualky remove all the other chip first and short was still present until I remove chip under emmc all the short disappear.

Good luck!

[rikabi]

That’s interesting. The max has 3 shorts on mine. This max chip is even smaller tham the m92 what heat settings did you use to remove.

Btw that cap moved out of places moved does it mater which way round it goes on when i put it back? It’s so tiny I cant see a difference.

[Integ209]

Cap should not matter which ways in on.

I have low success rate pulling that max chip off another board. It’s better just to buy a new one that comes with new balls, remove solder on the board and place new chip in place. Make sure the chip has the same orientation and the bottom right tip of chip is directly at the little circle bottom of the arrow

[rikabi]

Just another observation upon further inspection. I seemed destroyed the circled cap and the one right arrowed has no continuity. Yikes!

Are these important i presume? Can i harvest from some other electricals or buy them?

Sorry for all the questions appericate the help.

[Integ209]

I’m sure Severence will chime in with a better answer for the resistor or what you call them.

I would remove the max chip first to see if that clears up all your short then decide