Nintendo Switch 2016 stuck at second boot logo (nintendo switch logo) fast charge working

Hello. I purchased this switch described as no booting, infact it does not pass the second boot logo (nintendo switch logo), simply get stuck no black screen or other. The consol is unpatched, never been open or dropped. When I got it I noticed that it was in auto-rcm, maybe someone messed up something. Anyway I launched hekate, toke some photos and switch off auto-rcm.
I noticed that id does charge battery and fast-charge.
Can you please help me diagnosing and fixing this one? Thank you!




Launching CFW as the same results, stuck on second boot logo. Seller told me that he already tried to restore boot0 and boot1 but nothing changed ( this is why it was on auto.rcm). I think it may be hardware related. @Severence have you got any idea?

I would use linux (L4T) for checking if wifi is working.

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It seems like Ubuntu does not detect any WiFi card, is that right?

Correct. I would check the both little caps and the lines to the wifi ic left from the SoC shield.
The side down from the caps to the soc should have something close to 1 Mohms. The upside to the should have something around 10 kohms.

My guess would be the wifi ic itself.

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Here it is my measures for the two little caps you mentioned.
I reflowed two times the wifi IC, but nothing changed at all. Still stuck on 2’nd logo and wifi not detected in linux.

No shorts found around MT92, BQ and PI3USB main caps.
That could be “simply” dead wifi IC? Board does not seems to be bendt or shocked in any way. Never touched.

Pin 5 and 6 of MT92 both 3.3V present.

I also performed a eMMC Bench to test memory, but seems fine to me.


Uploading: IMG_6334.jpg…

What to do next? Thank you

PS, just to show you the WiFi IC area, here’s some images.
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Your at your limit on your meter by the look of it, regardless these caps look fine

You need to swap it out, that’s with 99% certainty your issue :slight_smile:

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I had already swapped twice, but unfortunately I’m still stuck un 2’nd boot logo :frowning:
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Talk me through your reball process bud and where you got the replacment IC from?

I used stencil from ebay and solder paste SnPB. First I used the IC of the board itself after reballing, just to try as I guess it’s faulty. Then an other one from eBay (France seller, pulled from a NS as seller told me). The third one, from the donor board I have, was unsuccessful as I damage it in the process of removing from the stencil

First step, desolder IC with hot air. Cleaned the IC using flux and wick, then IPA. I added a little amount of flux (amtech) and aligned the IC into the stancil holes. After I applied a little amount of solder paste and distribuite ti fill up the tiny holes and apply heat until it melts up. Then removed the IC using a little bit of heat a moving the edge of the stencil to make IC pop off. I did not remove the old solder in the mother board, just remove the excess using hot air and solder iron. After that re solder IC with hot air

This IC is too ball dense to leave solder remaining on the board itself so I’d always advise wicking

Following reballing the IC it’s really important to give it a very good look and ensure no one ball is bigger than another and that they are all within at least 80% of each others size, so look at it side on and at various angles, for whatever reason I find it’s common to get two balls which come out twice the size of the others and again for whatever reason it’s always the same two balls… perhaps a stencil defect either in terms of thickness or hole size :man_shrugging: so in those cases I have to cut the balls in half with a blade

Just to narrow things down further, and I don’t know if you mentioned it earlier but if you can confirm, did bluetooth connectivity still work (and does it still work now) ? (do the joycons connect etc) - does L4T still boot and show no wifi?

Also did you verify you can get your BIS keys etc? I’m primarily just checking nobody has swapped the EMMC module with another console here.

I confirm I can get BIS keys, the consol was never opened before (it’s an early 2016 version). I confirm that L4T work but still does not recognize any Wi-Fi module neither Bluethoot, the same as before replacing the wifi IC.

The fact that neither were working prior and now still points to the Wifi IC , there may be a chance it’s the corresponding lines SoC side but I’m still leaning to the Wifi IC, though I could be wrong.

Best guess is as follows, either an install error based on the issues I mentioned above, or you got a dud chip of the guy

I hope fourth times a charm :crossed_fingers:

Finally I found a good IC. So, now I can get WiFi and Bluetooth works on L4T! But Switch still stuckd on 2nd logo during boot. Same for both original and CFW. Maybe EMMC needs to be fixed in some way? Anyway in Linux everything works perfectly

Hard to say as this could be a number of things with no clear or simple way to diagnose.

It’s possible it’s FW related but it’s pretty rare tbh. Could be the two caps middle left of the SoC, if one of them is missing or damaged.

You haven’t lost any components surrounding the wifi IC or anything? as that could also cause these symptoms