Nintendo Switch doesn't power on/weird charging

Just a quick question… I have to do all the measurements with just the battery plugged in and the console powered off?

Battery unplugged, console powered off.

i think you’ve covered most of the primary rails, though the boot CPU rail my end typically measures somewhere in the 40/50 ohm range on original rev boards from memory

I may have a lots of problems…
3v3 - 0.3/0.4 resistance very weird(jumps from 17kohms to a few ohms every second)
1v8 - 0v 15.7 kohms
sys 0v 0.36 kohms
1v35 0v 1 mohms
1v15 0v 55 ohms
1v1 0v 0.986 kohms
1v8alt 0v
0v8 cpu 0v 360 ohms
0v8 gpu 0v 72 ohms
5v 0v 3.33 kohms

Hi,

Having suffered random resistance jumps with my own kit, I can fully sympathise with you. Clearly something subtle about the way the circuit reacts to the sampling nature of some multimeters. You may want to try other multimeter hardware here to get some comparative readings.

It’s possible that the 3v3 17kohmn is your true reading, so until you are getting a consistent result, we can’t really proceed further with diagnosis. Let’s focus on getting a stable reading first.

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I’d say the majority of those readings are within the realms of being in spec and more or less correct, and think it’s also worth noting that ambient temperatures can have a massive impact on in circuit resistance and diode mode readings, if you try taking some readings and then heat the board up to 40C (for example) and then repeat the process you’ll find eveything will skew, most likely to the lower end.

That being said, the way the meter is auto ranging is a little odd

The two readings which stand out to me is your SYS rail reading, which is too low (which might be as a reisult of bad fuel gauge or bad install further upstream) and possibly your 1V8 reading which assuming it’s not a meter issue (though a lot of meters have trouble with this rail) might be indicating an M92 issue or M92 install issue if I remember right

Think the best way to validate your meter is to measure those same rails on a known good board and find your own baseline results and compare against that

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Just had another quick skim back over this thread (sorry I should have done this earlier but it is a long one)

I think your first port of call should be to resolve (or just remove for now) the potential fuel gauge issues as your symptoms changing from being alble to boot Hekate only occured once you replaced the fuel gauge again (I’m assuming that this isn’t a seperate LCD conn bent pin issue though) , aftewhich (and assuming it boots Hekate following) I’d check the fuel gauge stats once again in Hekate, if all stats are basically nil like previous then it’s indicating either an issue with the IC itself or the install, if after reinstalling/replacing the IC the stats aren’t reoprted correctly then I would be checking the resistance to ground of your VBatt rail at the battery connector pin/s on the board and letting us know your readings there just in case and following that I’d jump on over to this topic and ensure all relevant fuel gauge lines have continuity to the various corresponding destinations

Also inbetween all that, after removing the Fuel gauge, I would check the resistance to ground on your SYS rail again just incase the bad IC/install was the the cause of the dragged down readings being caused (by the common BQ IE: a fault on VBatt subsequently dragging down SYS for example) further downstream

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I took again all the values with another multimeter
3v3 - 0v 39 kohms
1v8 - 0v 34 kohms
sys 0 0.36kohms
1v35 0 6mohms
1v15 0 55 ohms
1v1 0 0.986kohms
1v8alt 0
0v8 c 0 360 ohm
0v8 g 0 72 ohms
5v 0 3.33kohms

Sadly I only have another broken board

Without the fuel gauge ic i don’t have continuity in those points

Resistance to ground without fuel gauge is 0.290 kohms

Thanks for the help so far!!!

The way it’s ranging is once again really really odd

Can you provide those previous measurement on this broken board using your original meter which may offer clarification, no battery/power connected, black probe on ground, don’t worry about voltage readings

colour to colour is continuous, if the colours different they shouldn’t have continuity… can you comfirm?

Yeah this is a pfoblem. whats your reading across the battery connector +/- pins on the board?

Does Hekate boot now?