@Severence@zyrex
Hi apologies for the delay in my response…School holidays always seem to be quite busy when trying to keep our sibling occupied.
Re Switch - and latest steps taken
I tested continuity on USB connector with breakout board and everything seems fine.
Although I have not found any diagrams online that link USB to M92.
Checked P13 and all its filters and they are all good.
Reflowed LCD connector and all those connections are 99% better than previous
I have however swapped out the M92 with a new one… but got as far as that so far, I realise than some of the M92 connections need a little bit of TLC with fine solder tip to ensure they are looking shiny… this is my next stage before I connect it all up and test again.
@zyrex@Severence@Insomniac
Hellllpppp !!!
So I now have another problem.
Reflowing the M92 I caused a solder bubble from the solder that was squeezed out from the excess under M92 large ground pad.
Once I sorted the bubble noticed that it took a capacitor that I can no longer locate.
I have searched everywhere and this one is no longer present.
I do not have a donor board that I pull from to replace and have no idea what it’s value is. (See image attached and circled in red
@jkyoho
Many thanks for that information. I will see if I can find one of the same value from a Non switch board.
Might take me a little time now to locate one.
Will be in touch again soon
Solder would not magically bubble out the sides during reflow it happened becaused you overloaded the pads (specifically the central GND pad) and squeezed it down during reflow (bad, bad practice)
check the topic here where I detail why you shouldn’t be squeezing down IC’s
I’ve been seeing a fair number of boards recently which have had rework at the P13, M92, BQ areas by people who utilize this dumb squeeze down technique (evident by tweezer dints in chips and notable board warp in some cases) and in a lot of these cases I also find internal board VIA damage which goes hand in hand with it - these make the boards ultimately unreapairable
I think the biggest issue is you messing with IC’s which aren’t related to your problem, and in this case it’s hard to know if your just creating more problems hopefully once you’ve replaced the M92 we will see a change but tbh I think you should give your customer 20 quid and use this board as a donor and just buy a replacement board for him
@Severence@zyrex
I am currently out of the office at the moment but I have noted the method of how NOT to do it.
Problem is sooo many people show different ways, it’s hard to know what’s right and what’s wrong.
Your advice though and guidance is super helpful…
Only trouble with this forum is when you try and search for something it doesn’t take you to exactly what you need so end up spending hours reading through threads
Yeah it’s pretty tough to know sometimes and often you’ll only know in hindsight. A lot of people use the squeeze down “technique” as it’s a substitute for any real skill (and properly prepping the pads etc) and while it might work in a lot of cases it can cause more problems later down the road.
One way to determine if the vids your watching are spreading bad info is to look at some obvious pointers, for example, if the guy is using a steel brush to “clean” boards (as in what I’d use to remove rust from steel) and scratching the board and inadvertantly trimming resistors… then you can safely assume the guy doesn’t know what he’s doing. If you see a video where he points his tweezers to an IC, inadvertantly grazes and kills the IC and likely the whole customers board and then doesn’t even aknowledge it’s his fault, you can assume the guy doesn’t know what he’s doing. If you see vids where the guy is using a rotary tool (IE like a dremel) on a board to remove solder mask, ulltimately showering the board in copper dust and thinning the copper gauge out, then you can safely say the guy doesn’t have a clue. If you ever hear the term “We don’t have to worry about restoring that pin/pad because it’s just a ground” you can safely assume that guy is an idiot… list goes on, but they’re your clues
You’ll learn a heap from sifting through the different topics on the plus side
@Severence@zyrex
I forgot to mention… I have got a UNI-T UT61 series multimeter on its way to me.
I am going to start from scratch with ALL my readings - yes I know this may seem like a massive task but at least with a proper multimeter in hand I will be able to provide more accurate readings that you Benny and anyone else for that matter can compare.
Re: YouTube videos to watch and follow…I will just stick with Northridge Fix and theCoder that way I will be following more experienced and legitimate peoples work at least.
I will return back to the office Tuesday onwards but thanks for your continued support
No… reread what I just posted and then re-read the other topic I just linked too… this is your problem As I say, I won’t name any names or put anyone down but…
There’s none that will represent my repair methodology here on this forum (at least I don’t know of any) but here’s a list of a few youtubers I like and I’ll address some of the caveats. I’ll try and put them in some sort of order from beginner up kind of
covers very basic fundamentals of electronics, simple stuff, but a lot of people skip right on over to the repair end without even understanding the basics
Nice guy, funny
Mymatevince, even though he his learning himself, he always engages his brain
She is very good at what she does, as in the practical work, but just note she has a few fundamental misunderstandings on the theory side of things and still diagnosis things in a somwhat dated way, but if your a beginner this is great. Anyone else and you might find the manner in which she talks (like your a child) a little annoying… or like your your watching an episode of sesame street
pretty much can’t fault him, he will commit one or two cardinal sins (mentioned earlier) but he will almost always admit to it (do as I say not as I do) . His work is typically “janitorial” but you can gain somegood info in and amongst it.
You’ve got Paul from Rossmann repair, he’s pretty on point too and of course EEVBlog…I think that’s my lot
@jkyoho
I’ve just re-read your response… I found that image on Google and thought it was the M92 section…but realise you was trying to tell me that it was the BQ section.
I am needing a diode mode image of the M92 so that I can then circle which CAP is missing and then get the correct value.
@Severence
Many thanks for that extra information… I did start to watch some of these YT and spotted that My Mate VINCE does seem to use the squeeze error but I do like his videos…
I used to watch Jessica’s iPad Rehab when I started repairing iPhones…
Paul Daniels is very handy for my MacBook that I need to sort out at some point
Also going through some CAP tests with Continuity mode…
(Circled in red)
this Inductor has the same ohm both sides (will be more accurate when I get my UNI-T multimeter) but both sides are reading 40.2ohms - is this normal
@jkyoho
Thank you for that information… the Datasheet is extremely useful.
@Severence@Insomniac@zyrex
Not sure if I have asked this one before… but should a Diode NOT have one side which is going to Ground (000.1 ohms) like I have…or this normal
Diode mode = 0.105v one side and 0.000v the other side The diode I am talking about is on Side-B; opposite side to where PMIC is situated
it happened becaused you overloaded the pads (specifically the central GND pad) and squeezed it down during reflow (bad, bad practice)
hopefully once you’ve replaced the M92 we will see a change but tbh I think you should give your customer 20 quid and use this board as a donor and just buy a replacement board for him
