If the battery is dead and you dont have any other you probably have to solder the (Bad) M92 back and Let the battery slowly charge over night
@Severence
I do have quite a few PSU but which PSU would you recommend
@zyrex
I would like to refrain from returning that M92 if I really dont have to… and will be ordering a new one shortly if it is deemed BAD… but need to try and get some output with readings before I proceed up that path
I have received the replacement LCD screen…
Here is also what could be a silly question…
Could I potentially damage (Blow) the new screen if I plug it in… incase when the previous screen shorted out it damaged the original LCD screen.
Any is fine provided it is adjustable (IE: voltage/current controls)
While it’s possible, I’ve never seen it happen myself so I wouldn’t worry too much about this happening… but, if you do want to remain on the cautious side you could measure in resistance all LCD/BL related rails, so you’d be looking in the backlight IC area and 8316 IC area to verify (these things have been posted on the forums many times)
Yeah, don’t think it would boot with it being that low, needs some more juice 
@Severence @jkyoho @Insomniac @zyrex @coda @iBringsTheRuckus
Evening All,
I have been doing a lot of researching on here in regards to measuring resistance again all LCD/BL related rails…
Note**** I still have the M92 off at present and with the Board just Barebones nothing plugged into any locations.
This is what I have…
MAX77620A
Red - 05.22K
Blue - Pulsing nether stays still still
Yellow - 32.4 Ohm
Purple - 0.615K
No Shorts around MAX77620A
2R2 - both side pulsing
Diode mode: Both sides 362
Power Rails
3v3 - 19.85K
1v8 - 2.017K
SYS - 77.9K
1v35 - 04.37M
1v15 - 31.2 Ohm
1v1 - 0.597K
1v8 alt - 153K
0v8 CPU - 223.1 Ohm
0v8 GPU - 040.0 Ohm
5v Joycon/Fan - 3.291K
8316 IC - Diode Mode
A1 - 0.366v A2 - 0.366v A3 - 0.366v A4 - /
B1 - 0.001v B2 - / B3 - 0.574v B4 - 0.577v
C1 - 1.907V C2 - 0.702v C3 - 0.695v C4 - 0.707v
V OUT1 - 1.877v
V OUT2 - 0.483v
I have a DC Power Supply PS3010F
[
KAIWEETS PS-3010F DC Power Supply User Manual - Manuals+
manuals.plus/kaiweets/ps-3010f-dc-power-supply-manual
Will this suffice in regards to charging the battery?
All seems fine, nothing jumping out at me - your 1V8PDR is reading low but this is typical on some meters…
fine
no clue off the top of my head, but nothings jumping out at me as bad
That’s fine, just set it to approx 4.2V with an initial current limit of 0.5A, once the voltage hits approx 3.2 ish then put the current limit up to 1A, disconnect the PSU and if the battery maintains a voltage of > 3.7V this should be enough
I tried the new LCD…
I am still getting Zilch / Zero / Zippo - nothing
The M92 is still off at present but I cannot see anything else that is causing it to not power up
USB Tester is still showing 0.02 Amps
Your 1v15 is a bit lower than usual, on working Boards I have at least 40+.
This with a charged battery?
You won’t get full charge current without M92 installed (and you can’t use the USB to prompt it to boot without it either, so have to use the pwr button) - I can’t remember if the boards will draw anything at all without M92 installed… 
given how some of his other measurments are off, I expect the difference is just down to his meter and seem to be in the realms of normal
@Severence
So I got DC Power supply connected up
BUT
Switch Battery has got 2 Red and 2 Black
Does it matter which one of these I connect my fly leads too?
@zyrex
Yes it could be the meter - its not a Fluke i’m afraid
no, they’re in parallel
Fluke is as bad or worse than most cheap meters on the market, 20 y/o out of date junk
This DC power supply… doesn’t allow me to control current and voltage at same time.
I can inject Constant Voltage of 4.2v into it but cant confirm its 0.5A
Or I can inject Constant Current of 0.5A but can’t confirm Voltage nor am I able to read battery voltage
Yeah… I agree Fluke is too overpriced and when my one (which was handed to me as a gift) broke, I decided to buy a VC97A - does everything the Fluke did plus much much more
well you can’t control both at the same time, I imagine it’s in terms current set and current limit… 4.2V at 500mA is fine anyway
The Vichy stuff are out and out clones of the Flukes (on a software level) which explains your wonky readings earlier 
I set my PSU to 00.50 amps but it’s Voltage is sitting just merely on above 00.02 volts
Am I missing something here it’s been a while since I used the PSU, and I have never used it in the way you advise CC.
I normally used it to power Apple devices that I am repairing so inject with a voltage instead.
I suspect your connection is bad to the battery.
Don’t take this the wrong way but perhaps you should buy one of those cheap 5V to li-ion automated battery chargers on eBay until you get familiar with how PSU’s work often times this is safer for beginners
Something like this is fine
Uni-t has good Meters, not overpriced like
Found mine even cheaper on ebay
@Severence @zyrex
Apologies for the delay in response… had a very busy week (non electronics though)
@Severence Thank you for that link… so it appears I already have one of those but it’s slightly older version (Micro USB) so I can set that up to work at the values you have provide me with.
@zyrex - I have never shopped with Aliexpress… I have heard some nasty stories about people being scammed.
Re: the multimeter… is it the Auto ranging that is the problem or is it something else…
The meter I own has never let me down but I can look at upgrading what I already own