Ok.
I’ve managed to measure the 3 points.
Vbus: 4,9V
Bat: 3,77V
Sys:4,09V
So Everything seems ok isnt it?
Sounds to me like you have a fault with your M92 IC… provided your USB is soldered properly, might be worth searching the forum for that specifically
There are no shorts around the m92t36 chip.
I think the usb c port is ok because my multimeter is showing me voltage on a few points when i measure with ac cable in.
But could be that i am wrong.
The switch wont even boot that is the problem
This was in reference to your error code earlier, M92 doesn’t always fail short.
Poor soldering on BQ will cause the symptoms of nintendo logo then black screen, if you want me to check this for you (I’ll be brutal 
) then take a snap of this area
Search the forum in the switch category for a few of my posts “primary rails” and check the resistance to ground on them (battery power disconnected first) it’s possible you now have a secondary issue.
Hey.
Little Feedback…
I’ve changed m92t36, also replaced this tiny 0201 cap next to the m92t36 chip, i replaced the bq24913 and the pi3usb chip.
Cleaned up everything very clearly.
And i replaced the usb-c port by the way. Everything seems to sit perfectly in position.
But it got worse now. Now i have a short on the cap above the pi3usb and a few short on the caps behind the CPU…
Just for testing i’ve removed the pi3usb chip and the cap above it…still short.
Is the nintendo switch completely dead now.
Or can i rescue it somehow?
Short around cpu is normal. I have one vertical row short near cpu. Can you upload pictures of all the IC to check ?
Hey.
I’ve made some pictures and checked where are shorts.
I hope you guys can give me a hint or a solution.
I literally getting crazy here…i’m working for about 2 months on this nintendo now finding out what the issue causes and every time i replace something i get a new issue…
The areas you’ve highlighted which are measuring short is 3V3PDR.
USB install looks fine, leave it be for now.
Your BQ and M9 are not on straight and BQ in particular looks like it’s potentially lacking solder in areas, this is typically due to people putting too much solder on the center pad. Shorts can occur when people squeeze the IC’s down during reflow.
Remove M9 IC first and see if the short on 3V3PDR clears, i expect it will.
Also this is likely unrelated to your short or other faults and may well just be the lighting or flux residue but just thought I’d point it out. What appears to be a solder ball between the resistor and cap.
Can you also let me know the type of solder your using?
Sorry i dont know the type of solder.
I will give it a try to remove the m92t36 chip then i will give you feedback.
When it dont work i will try to remove the bridges.
Thank you for the hints.
btw, i should add, don’t plug battery in on this console or plug USB in while you have a short on 3V3PDR.
Doing so will eventually corrupt EMMC data and/or damage other components.
Does it not have a sticker on the roll? provided it’s not low melt it’s fine, just wanted to check 
I just had a couple meters of solder left over.
But now it is empty and i only have this low melting solder. But i can not work with this so i first have to buy new solder before i can continue with soldering.
But i will try to remove the m92t36 chip.
Like you said its true that i have pressed the chip down and on the bq chip was much of solder but i didnt thought it was bad.
Side Information: I have another board from s broken switch, if i should replace something i can take from this board
I’d reccommend 63/37 Leaded, get a name brand from a legit distributor (mouser etc) i use chip quick.
Wick up any and all of the low melt solder if you used it on this board. I’ve discussed the issues with using low melt solder many times here so i won’t go into details less i start sounding like a broken record 
It may be the lighting, but you appear to have a solder ball or some sort of bridge between the capacitor and resistor.
This is CPVDD and correlates with pin 23 on the realtek IC, if the above is not the issue, then , given it’s obvious the realtek IC has been reworked at some point, I’d remove it and see if the short clears.
I reflowed the m9, the bq and the pi3usb without pressing it down. And i tried to remove as much bridges as possible.
I wicked off the center part of the chips but still the same probelm: nintendo logo appears, stays for 1 or 2 seconds und then blsck screen…
By the way i found a missing component and replaced it but still dont work…
You haven’t confirmed or denied the previou posts, so can’t really help until i know one way or the other unfortunately 
Sorry.
Wich post do you mean?
The above post…