Rework Station 858D fuse blow and heating element burnt out

I have bought some Chinese station YCD-858D, the rework station has recently had its fuse blown and the wire near the heating element in the handle melted together. After replacing the fuse and replacing it with a new handle. The station starts up, I try to set it up for 400 degree C, but it goes from 400 degree C and run up to 500+ degree C. Finally it just show handle error. The handle does blow hot air.

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Hey,

I’ve highlighted what i think is each area on the board, i could be wrong though as it’s hard to say without measuring directly. Question marks on components i can’t quite make out.

If the front panel 7-seg display is lighting up then we can rule out the Linear regulator and in turn also the bridge rectification diodes. If the front panel controls work and alter the display then we can rule out MCU & EEPROM. If fan control/speed works we can rule out TIP IC.

So it seems as though possibly the triac is stuck on, try measuring directly across two of it’s leads at a time in resistance and see if any are short. If yes, desolder it and measure out of circuit to confirm.

Can you take a photo of the board button/display side in it’s entirety so I can see the associated solder joints, i see what look like a lot of cold joints elsewhere and am wondering if thats what caused the failure to begin with.

Is this 110v or 220/240v?

Worst case, if that isn’t the problem, then my ultra cheap station is a variant of this model and i can crack mine open for testing

Just add, it’s probably best not to power on until the fault is resolved to avoid burning out the 2nd heating element in the newer handle

The fact the new handle is still blowing hot air, indicates the element is still fine, and i guess the thermocouple (maybe thermistor) reading is going past the max allowable temperature reading which is why your seeing that error

the front 7 seg lights up, the front panel and control work when I last tested it. I believe the fan speed works too.

I have tested the triac (bta16-600b) out of the circuit, from left to right pin ( the left 2 pin has 0 ohm and continuity beeps) (attached picture)

it is a 110V ( so it says at lesat haha)

which one is the thermocouple or thermistor ?

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Great, you found the problem! Faulty triac

I can’t make out the markings on the IC as your photo has gone thumbnail size for some reason but looks like an ST BTA16 ?

If yes, It’s a jellybean part manufactured by several companies not just ST

You can just grab them off ebay if you want and it might be worth picking up more than one, just avoid the chinese listings else you’ll be waiting a month
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=bta16&_sacat=0&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1&_pgn=1

Prior to fitting the replacement triac, might be worthwhile checking the few resistors surrounding it in the area and making sure their values are an approximate match to their respective marking… This is just in case one has burnt out due to the short.

I can’t easily make out solder joint condition from your image unfortunately as it just breaks down when i zoom in but based on what i saw on your previous images, i’d go round the board and touch up all through hole joints at a minimum which should prevent future issues.

I ask only because apparently on certain 110V models/variants of this station some had the fuses wired incorrectly, instead of correctly wiring the fuse in-line with the Live wire they incorrectly put it in-line with the neutral. So might be worth checking that on yours and making sure, just don’t trust the wire colours within the unit but instead check which side is L and N by checking a pinout of the IEC/Kettle socket in order to determine.

Hope that makes sense

This will make it’s way from the board > connector > wire and then finally inside the handle. I wouldn’t worry about this for now though as I’m no longer expecting a fault there.

Whoops, missed that in your previous post, this version of the IC has an Isolated tab. So when selecting the replacement on ebay or elswhere ensure it too also has a Isolated tab

does the capacitor have to sit on the board, because most of it are up a few millimeters?

does the ohm reading change when it is on the board and taken off the board?

I will try out and report back to you, I have bought replacement part from eBay local so should be in soon. thanks again

Nah, leave them be, it’s good practice to leave a gap of a few mill

They can in some cases depending on whats in circuit but don’t worry about pulling them off, your only after approximate measurements in circuit to confirm.

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Update: I have replaced the triac, and it is fully working now. Thankyou Severence for the help.

If I want to learn more about electronic/console repair. how should I start?

That’s great man! glad you managed to fix it.

Hmm, I’m self taught but you can get a lot of good info from Louis Rossmann’s, Paul Daniels, iPad Rehab, EEVBlog videos :slight_smile: they’re a clever bunch

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