Switch charges at 5V 0 Amps no display

Hey everyone,
I just got my hands on a broken switch I found that it charges at 0 amps 5v even with a known good battery. The BQ24193 has one shorted capacitor to the left of it and gets too hot to touch after just a few seconds. I’d like to include a picture of what capacitors are shorted but I don’t know how. I’ve then found a few capacitors shorted to ground next to the +MAX 77621AEWI. I’ve ordered the BQ24193 because I assume it is broken. Any Idea to why the capacitors next to te +MAX Chip are also shorted?

Stay healthy~

Take out the M92T36 and see if you have any more shorts. If it disappears, change the M92T36 as well.

I’ll definetly try that tomorrow thanks!
Im going to post the results as soon as i took both of the chips out.

I replaced the bq24193 and all the shorts on the board disappeared but it still wonr power on. The dock blinks rapidly but somehow my Amp usb tester still shows 0A (beggining to think it only works <1 A). Any Ideas?

Input on M92T is 5v when plugged in and output is 0.13V I will order a replacement.

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I am dealing with your same problem and from what I’ve gathered from past threads, 0A usually is caused by faulty fuse, coil or m92 so check those 2 as well

How do I check the coil?

Just like the fuse, test the resistance between the upper and lower side, you should have continuity as it’s basically just a long wire

Hey everyone,
After replacing the M92 and I still had no signs of live I investigated further and removed the P13 USB. After removing this chip a LOT of shorts right behing the Tegra appeared. Sadly this switch is unfixable. :frowning: Thanks for your guys help tho!

Those components behind the tegra have very low resistance to ground so try to confirm those measurements with and without the pi3 before calling it a brick

Unfortunately the shorts are still present with p13 and without p13. I wish it wasnt a brick

But that’s my point, what you call “short” could just be a functioning component with very little resistance to ground. Been there, done that. Try to check again the main 3 chips and try to follow the voltage and the amperage before surrendering (but don’t cause any shorts with your multimeter because you’ll risk ruining the motherboard for good). Check again if you bridgedany pin etc

I will check again, but I don’t know what else to check than the input output on the M92T

Plug the battery into your motherboard, then the usb cable and follow the voltage (don’t bridge anything though). Is 5V coming out of m92’s east side via? If not rework the chip. Or maybe it’s a defective one

The big cap above the USB port has 5V as expected (im using a normal phone charger dont have the genuine one on hand) going further to the M92 theres a small black cap also on 5V but on the input line of the M92 theres only 0.43V.

Section K number 7 as far as I remember should be 5V all the way through the greenish capacitor east of M92T36 (well, south of m92 in this picture). What measurements do you get at the capacitor or at the check pins?`
http s://gbatemp. net/attachments/switchre_side1-jpg.163347/

On K7 i get .26V and on the big caps south of M92 theres 0.4 and .3 but on the really small cap below those two big ones I have 5V

I mean the cap that is in the via connected to K7, why don’t you post a picture so we can check if anything looks sketchy?

https ://imgur. com /a /WY3JWN5

Orange capacitor between the coil and BQ chip looks barely attached, I would certainly rework that first