I paid 160€ for the 2… I issued a case in Paypal resolution center and the guy replied that I was aware that I bought broken consoles which is true but he told that he only replaced the battery… If I only replace the battery than I do not replace the motherboard! Mess up the lcd connectors and especially do not use wood screws to put it together.
I am really interested in Paypals reaction in this case…
This is ca the 6 time in a row that this happened to me and the first time I complaind because I am fed up with sh*t…
Was this eBay? if so just hit “i have a problem” it will auto generate a return label at the sellers expense… while “for parts or not working” listings protect the seller it doesn’t excuse dishonest listing descriptions, if he was savvy enough to change a battery then he should be smart enough to recognize a wood screw… if he wasn’t the one to put them in in the first place.
I doubt paypal will get involved here.
I get it, but it comes down to the listing description… if they say “for parts, got in a joblot, as seen” etc then the gamble would be yours in this case, regardless of whether they know one way or the other the true condition etc, unfortunate, but that’s the way it is.
And yeah, that’s way too much
This was a kind of German market place without any buyer protection. This is why I paid with Paypal. It was for sure advertised as defekt but my first question to the guy was if it was ever opened and if there were any repair attempt. To this he replieed that he only tried to replace the battery. This is why I bought them.
So this is why I involved Paypal resolution center and my only chance is the dishonesty of the guy that I can proove.
I never buy joblots or where they state that they do not know they already bought it as defekt… This is all scam for sure
Here in Germany this is nowadays a really good price. On ebay auctions people are selling them for 110-150€ faulty. This is crazy… So I am happy if i can buy one for 80€…
I wouldn’t pay any more the 40GBP for one whether that’s on it’s own or equated within a job lot.
Reason is, if the board can’t be repaired the value of the parts within the assembly (assuming at least 80% are good) are worth no more than 40 and no money is lost as a result and it remains useful.
I say this even with over a 90% board repair success rate, but you have to factor in the time lost on these more complex boards which have passed through many hands prior.
Yeah prces are inflated atm, less than a month ago they were selling used tablet only in working condition for 120GBP… just wait a few weeks for the prices to settle
I could never buy one below 65€. This is the one you helped me last time with the boot issue. Most of them I bought around 85€.
Until now that I bought 2 in a raw with blue screen and the one with this boot (most probably EMMC) issue my succes rate was also around 85-90%. But now this 3 came in a row… But for sure I was also lucky because my knowledge and experience is nowhere compaared to yours… I only worked on ca 16-18 switch before…
What I see here that it is slowly increasing since ca 1 year. Maybe since this corona started. Until than I could buy warranty returns around 85€.
Yeah still seems too high to me. Think with eBay and the other market places you have to consider all faulty/for parts listings as donors at best and if I’m buying donors i tend not to pay any more than 1/4 (and even that’s high) the final sale value of a working unit and this applies to everything like Macbooks, iPhones etc not just Switch. If your doing it to learn that’s different though as your gaining the value from them 
Yeah seems to have spiked recently, i sold a Switch tablet only a week or so a go for almost 250GBP… crazy, no idea if there is a shortage of them atm or people have just got more money than cents 
I am doing this for fun only at the moment. I really enjoy it and learn a lot from it. I am working as a development engineer so this repair is really only a hobby for me. Although if I do not lose the motivation and success will come I could imagine a business from this in the future. At the moment what I earned with it I pretty much turned back to tools (I think much more)
I find also macbook repairs quite interesting but those are pretty expensive and require quite high investment. The lots of schematics and board views there for sure help a lot.
That is super crazy
Have you already received your EMMC reader?
This is what I received now. It is a direct heat stencil directly for Switch with all the necessary BGA pinouts. I will try it now.
Not yet.
Cool, need to get myself one of these stencils for convenience
I tried it now and it is not easy to use. It warps immediately from heat. I suffered a lot. I tried to hopd it down with tweezers and magnets but the Wifi chip was super difficult to reball. I managed to do it the 10th time roughly.
The Asic was ok for the first time. Are there any tricks?
I tried different temperatures, air speed etc
My hot air station temps and speeds are likely different to yours but,
I set the heat on mine anywhere from 390C to 420C when reballing IC’s, airflow is always on it’s lowest setting,
I start from quite a distance when using the hot air so the stencil can absorb some of the heat, if it gets hot too quickly or only one part of the stencil is receiving the bulk of the heat then it will buckle.
While maintaining consistent downward pressure on the stencil with the tweezers slowly bring the hot air closer to the IC and let the balls form.
Some people find paste reballing easier on a silicon mat or a folded up paper towel as it provides opposing pressure underneath so it more consistantly presses the IC up against the stencil. I personally just do it on a flat work bench, but do whatever works best for you.
Btw magnets are good idea, but they’ll lose there magnetism when they get hot.
Once you’ve done it a few times you’ll look back and say that was one of the easier ones, and when your doing the more complicated reballs you’ll long for the day when it was the WiFI IC 
Just add, I have a multi stencil which had the LPDDR4 Ram pattern, the stencil in this case was such low quality that it buckled regardless of technique, I wound up having to cut the Ram portion out of the stencil with a dremel to make it usable. I haven’t encountered any such issues with any of my other stencils so it was a bit of an anomoly
Basically this is what I did.
I was thinking that I used a quite heavy steel board and basically I pressed against it the stencil. Maybe it was pulling quite a lof of heat and this was not optimal. I will try next directly on my silicone mat.
I have some high temp magnets but they also lost a lot of magnetism as expected so not perfect.
OMG. Than I have to prectice a lot
I hope mine is not like this. It was super cheap. Ca 4€.
I am thinking that I will create a metal frame around the chips with a kind of pressing mechanism which is holding the stencil down consistetly without the need of burning my hands with tweezers I have to figure this out now.
That’s a good idea, though the mas of a steel frame might cause more buckling issues with the stencil.
I wonder if a 3D printed jig would tolerate the heat if it was wrapped in kapton… or would it just melt first time
I suppose you could make the base of the jig preload with a spring and fix the height of the stencil above
Something like this https://images.app.goo.gl/V4GWvh8kRpgVt6T26
Replacing the rubber thing with 2 parallel metal rods with a distance that you can still do the pasting inbetween. If the rods are thin enough it will not absorb a lot of heat.
Kapton did not work. I tried to wrap the magnets in it to protect them from heat but did not work. 3D prints would fail in a matter of seconds.
Lets figure out something and we will patent it 
To not to overbend the stencil from the bottom 2 screws could stop it at the thickness of the chip.
Maybe, though those stlye of clamps exert quite a lot of force, could see it potentially damaging the IC.
I have a jig here which is supposed to be for exactely this purpose, it holds a direct heat stencil in it’s jaws and a a spring pushes up on the IC. The problem with it though is the spring tension isn’t stong enough and you can’t get the paste in without the IC falling out, but if the spring is any stonger it damages the IC. I think if a better solution existed then a more elegant jig would likely be avaliable from China, i don’t know of any…
This might be one of those situations where the best solution is just to perfect the tweezer method and save yourself the hassle of trying to make a jig
For sure I did not want to use the full force.
I have now a plan. I will fast make a 3D model than you can easily imagine
You almost “killed” my motivation now
Saying that, just had a quick search and there is another style here which looks to be of higher quality, though I’m struggling to find an active listing for it… and there may be a good reason for that (they’re crap and stopped selling them)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32866542616.html
No idea how the base mechanism on this style works whether it’s spring loaded or not
Haha no i hope not, you might have the best invention in the waiting, if it works well I’ll make one too