hmm, do a test with the stencil out of the jig (on a flat table or something) and see after putting in the 0.35mm balls if when lifting the stencil they all fall through, or if any require some amount of force to push them through.
It’s possible these Chinese solder balls have too much deviation… which i wouldn’t be surprised about given their track record regarding other solder products.
I will clean now with break cleaner. Maybe IPA is not degreasing the stencil perefctly. Afterwards I will just put it onto a table as you recommended.
If you check the picture I attached before thatn basically it can be seen that the balss are way smaller than the holes but still stuck to the edge inside
I’m using the same stencil as you, but maybe the machining or laser cutting (i don’t know the process) is not as good for some reason and the edges are rougher or something.
Maybe static is holding them in place, did the balls come in some sort of plastic bottle? if so, if you have a glass jar, put them in that with a copper coin and give it a spin prior and see if that helps
They arrived really nice small glass bottles.
Look at this. It really looks a little bit like static… This is now after cleaning with brake cleaner, tested on the table yust with ca 50 balls… I am really sad thath nothing wants to work out 
hmm, I’ll take a look af the balls I’m using in my stencil and see if there is a notable difference.
I don’t get any more than three balls hanging about in the stencil when i do this worst case.
If the glass jars had a plastic top (with a foam insert inside) remove the top, get an old mains plug and remove the Live and Neutral wires from it, strip back the earth, plug this disected plug into a wall outlet and plunge the earth wire into the balls and swirl them around a bit and see if that helps… probably not, but worth a try.
I earthed my balls 
but did not work either. At least 20-30% of them stuck inside… I am really close to through them out on the window 
Haha i had my doubts if that would work. Well i think as we both have the same Stencil then it must be the balls at fault, perhaps they aren’t as spherical as the ones I’m using and minute flats gives static more effective surface area, or perhaps they’re a fraction bigger.
Maybe get some branded ones from farnell if they have them. I can send you a link to the ones I’m using, but as i mentioned earlier, I’m not over the moon with these myself.
Yes, I was thinkimg on it now a lot. I cannot really imagine the stencil. It really looks like the balls are electrostatically charged and they stuck to the stencil. For the last trial I even used my ESD wristle band connected to the earth but still the same. I will order some quality 0.35mm balls from Farnell maybe.
I would appriciate if you would send me the link for your balls 
I assume you use 63/37 balls, right?
In farnell They call it solder pellets. But the ones with similar diameter cost 180€/5g 
Whoa insane.
Right, whether they are actually this claimed alloy or not is another question, I have my doubts.
.It was the same as these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solder-Ball-Rework-Repair-Tools-Leaded-For-IC-Chip-BGA-Reballing-Balls/383719914410?hash=item59577d3baa:g:1SwAAOSwaEhfX7ZN
As i mentioned before, I’m not happy with them, If i find some branded ones for a more reasonable price I’ll let you know.
This is the only one I found.
All the others are insanely priced…
Seems to be the best option, can’t get it cheaper elswhere even direct from chip quik themselves. Checked all the other distributors and there is literally no alternative to this.
I’d get the cheap Solder balls i linked to above for general use and practice (it’s Speedpak so shoudn’t take as long as stuff usually does from China) and pickup the chip quick balls later on. I recall there was a lot more options a year or two ago… maybe the current climate has altered things.
Yes, I also checked all the sources I know but this was the most reasonable.
It is ca half the price of the Chipquik including shipping. I think I will order one. I have no better idea…
I suppose in the meantime for practice you could make your own solder balls with the Chip Quik paste and a direct heat universal stencil with matching ball size
Tjats a really good idea. At least I will see if really my balls are the reason of my trouble. Although I assume if I make balls from paste on a flat plate they will also have a flat area but lets see
Finally I received my Amtech 559 flux. I am really interested in how it works.
By the way have you got a clue what is 2107-0445 error code? As soon as it boots up it drops this error. The same in recovery mode so no chance to start any factory reset or anything like this.
It looks like a sowtware fault to me.
Or maybe could be a wifi issue?
Never had the error myself. I’m seeing conflicting reason for the error online which is typical.
Cheeck 1V8PDR and 3V3PDR resistance relative to ground and see if anything is a miss.
Check all connectors for bent pins or corrosion etc.
Failing the above, next up
Reflow Wifi IC and see if you can clear boot… even if it’s just temporary.
If it’s unpatched you could mount over USB in hekate and wipe USER and saves etc (backup EMMC entirely first)
Yes, I could also find different results but nothing really concrete.
I have just a few minutes ago put this repair on hold because I bought 2 from the sam guy as never opened before. Now I opened them up and realised the the SN does not fit with the one in the case. Some wood screws are used instead of the original ones. On the other one the LCD connector is messed up, also wood screws are used. Screws are missing so I thought I will send it back to the seller. I hate when they want to scam me… Lets see if I can reach something with Paypal…
Until than I do not want to do anything special on them…
I really do not know where to buy never opened switches… I am fed up with already messed up previous repair attempts…
Oh dear.
Yeah If you paid over 80eur for the two just return them…not worth the hassle sometimes.
You and me both
