Thats correct I was getting 0.43amps
So just to summarise inductor first, then measure, then BQ IC?
BQ first, then measure the inductor pads and ensure no short to ground on pad 1 or 2
If good, pop the inductor back on, double check your measurments at either side of the newly installed inductor, if all good then proceed to reinstall the M92 IC.
I’ve got a horrible feeling this is going to be a Ram or SoC issue though as the cap you marked 10 in your image as 2.58K relative to ground is rather low, normally it would be in 10k region, and I’ve seen similar measurments on Mariko boards (which are very similar to Lites)
But I hope I’m wrong 
BQ reinstalled
Pad 1 reads 5.53k ohms
Pad 2 reads 8.5k ohms
Measured number 10 again and it is now showing 5.83k ohms and 0.08 ohms from 2.58k / OL
Great, Inductor and M92 next.
That’s better (though still low), hopefully just your meter playing silly buggers
Inductor back on and either side read 5.83k ohms
That’s about right 
This is somewhat coincidental though compared to your measurment on 1V8PDR (number 10 cap from your image)
Can you measure the resistance from cap 10 positive to one side of this inductor… it’s probably nothing to worry about but worth a check
Resistance from cap 10 as I’m not sure which side is positive as you requested I did both sides:
Left side read 8,58k ohms either side of the inductor
Right side read 5.45k ohms either side of the inductor
Also M92 is back on now as well… above readings are with M92 on
It’s a bypass cap, so one side goes to ground, so you can buzz that out with your meter, positive will be the opposing side
Ah right, that’s fine then.
And what’s your reading on cap 10 releative to ground now M92 is back on?
Reading it as 5.32k ohms gone down a little bit from before.
K this is is still a bit low for my liking, but high enough for a test with battery and cable
Battery and cable connected charges at 0.42amps jumped to 1.1amps then to 0.32amps
Connected the screen (hope this wasn’t a bad idea) no stuck at 0.42amps no blue screen just a black screen now, back light works I can see it light up.
EDIT: I just remembered that chipped component is still off? is this bad?
Good sign. The drop to 0.32A after though could be indicating another issue, or maybe the battery is just fully charged.
No that’s fine. I just wouldn’t keep this console powered up for anything more than basic testing as I do believe you still have a secondary fault though I need someone else with a Lite board to verify a few of your measurments.
Is this the inductor by the connector? if yes then this will have an impact on picture as it’s related to the +5 -5V LCD supply. Do you have any regular switch donor boards and I can show you where you can get one.
I don’t I only have this board on me, I work from home and customers bring me their devices and I work on them then order the parts… this is the first time I have tried with help to diagnose a board. I normally tell them it need a specialist with better knowledge and I offer best advice to what the problem could be, no fix no fee and off they go 
Fair enough
So according to the 8316 datasheet, in the typical circuit it’s listed as a 4.7uH inductor. You might find this type and size hanging about on something else. Though it’s entirely possible the IC is also at fault here but we won’t know until the Inductor is replaced.
The only thing I have laying around are old iPhones and playstation pads that I could take the part off of, I wouldn’t know where to start though.
grab the schematics and board views for the apple related products you have and search each schematic PDF for “4.7” there may or may not be a space befeor uH or it may not be the “u” character but the micro char.
If you find an inductor which is a match then load up the boardview and see where it is on the board and pinch it
Alternatively you could just pick one up on eBay
I’d just measure the size of the existing one and select the most appropriate
Will this inductor work, I was struggling to find board view that you don’t have to pay for and schematics so opted to buy one instead.
www .mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/TDK/MLP2016H4R7MT0S1?qs= %2FPzWLGNeQ%252BhCt3TukcHfYQ%3D%3D
Meets the 4.7uH SMD so will it work or do you think it won’t?
EDIT: Won’t let me post a link so you’ll have to remove the spaces. after www and =