Picofly installed worked first time niw switch fried

Pretty sure this is 1V35PDR, from memory I don’t think is should be this low. Can someone confirm this for me if you have a mariko board handy? (I think it would ordinarily be something like 130K or into the mohms) @Calvin any idea?

This one should definately not be this low.

So those two rails are the real problem here. (I’ll wait for someone to verify what I mentioned above) but assuming I’m correct, then the likely cause is going to be whatever IC has these rails in common, and that would be the main PMIC or the SoC. I guess you could pull the indcutors for the rails in question and see which side represent the shorts to narrow it down.

This also assumes this isn’t two separate faults, such as a cap on said rails failing (highly unlikely)

Also this would suggest the EMMC wasn’t a problem (though that doesn’t mean it will work) rather, it’s not causing the shorts your seeing on your board. Can you take a picture of the EMMC module in it’s entirety for me, one of you last pictures I could partially see it but it seems like some potential monkey business was going on here… or, just as likely, could have been a trick of the camera.

As to what actually caused the issue in the first place, no clue but as I touched on earlier one of those shorted rails is for the EMMC - so assuming you soldered everything up correctly :man_shrugging: then I’m left to assume overvoltage on the rail which might (really big might here) be because of a design flaw with these modchips.

Also just for completeness, take a very close look inside all connectors (LCD connector in particular), as junk or bent pins could potentially put a fault on 1V8PDR, and I guess there is a chance it could pull that other rail down as a result (though I think this is less likely given it’s a soft short but who knows)

Just to also confirm that all readings were ohms

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I forgot, I also need you to confirm this rail too with your EMMC connected to the board. and as mentioned you should get a reading here (with or without the EMMC connected) – take the measurment at the PI3 cap again) - this is the other rail for your EMMC so it’s quite important this one, I overlooked it earlier.

I’ve forgot what typical is on a good board, maybe something like 18K to 160K (depending)


I have attached the photo of the emmc

The reading on p13 cap with emmc is

Left 24.9 when measuring at 200kilohms as seen in below meter picture

Right side is 1.1 ohms

Without emmc

Left is 102.0 at 200kilohms and roght is 0.5 ohms

Hope this helps in figuring out whats going on

so 24.9 kilohms which is fine. This means you should be fine in attempting to dump the contents on your unpatched switch via Hekate (though make sure you understand about update fuses and the like prior, if this is relevant in your case) - That being said it’s a bit pointless even bothering trying just yet given the mainboard faults. Also your EMMC module looked fine in the picture and the previous image was just trick of the camera so no worries.

checking this topic here

Which is a lite board which uses the same SoC as your board, he’s getting reading in the megaohms on his 1V35PDR. So I think this pretty much confirms the fault in your case.

So from your image,
0ac1145bfe1dbd2bd29ae5739b460d0802a1877d_2_374x500

Remove the inductor top left (peach) and the inductor top right (black) and then measure the resistance to ground on all four pads. :+1: this will give us a better indication if it’s the PMIC at fault or the SoC, sorry to say I think it’s going to be the SoC :frowning: but you never know

Also just for completeness, can you take me a picture of the fuel gauge… I don’t see any conceivable way a fault over at the fuel gauge could couse the faults over at the PMIC… but again, worth a look and to cross it off.

I also take it you checked the LCD connector and all others?

If it the soc does that mean so hope or there is hope

I have checked lcd connectors and cbales all good also when you mean fuel gauge what do you mean by this

Pop those inductors off which I mentioned and take the measurments and we’ll see if there is a chance, though it’s slim, it could be your main PMIC at fault (the max chip in the middle) but we’ll see.

If it’s doesn’t turn out to be the PMIC and it’s the SoC then sorry but no hope I’m afraid :frowning:

The fuel guage IC (search the forum dude :+1: ) I just want to take a look a it

I think i need to invest in a hot air soldering in order to remove them as its hard wirh a soldering once i get a chance i wikl update

So i managed to get the caps off only the one in red is reading 182.0 ohms the rest no reading on any of the ohms ranges

I also accidentally lost the cap next to the one in yellow would you happen to know what value this is and type if cap so i can get a replacement please to fit back on

The both big components (one marked red) are inductors and not caps. The missing cap below doesn’t matter for getting the board started. It is a bypass cap. Should be replaced (C0603 4.7µF) if you managed to bring this board to life again.

The fuel gauge is on the left down corner on the backside of the battery connector. The really tiny black ic.

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Put your meter in the 2M range and let me know again what your reading on all four of the inductors pads just so I can make sure.

Initial thought is, 1V8PDR is shorted downstream (not the PMIC responsible) which likely points to the SoC being the issue. Interesting 1V35PDR seemingly cleared as a result of removing 1V8PDR inductor. I guess it was happening by way of the PMIC after the fact.


I believe this should be the ic from the description

Looks fine afaict.

I’ll wait for your measurments again just to be doubly sure but based on your readings prior it is suggesting the SoC is at fault (In which case there is nothing you can do) I mean you could maybe ensure modchip is good physically (update the firmware etc) solder it back up and see if you get anything onscreen, though, even if you do (which I don’t think you will) , I’m not sure how long it’d last given the faults we’ve identified.

That being said, I suppose there is a very very very slim chance it’s something else on 1V8PDR which could be causing the fault but given the amount of things which have a connection with this rail (pretty much everything on the board) you basically have to strip the board down to virtually nothing to find it (or go round with your meter in resistance, maintain consistent ground, and check all locations where the rail shows up and see which location it measures at it’s lowest relative to ground to find the most likely candidate) but I think you’ll still wind up back at the SoC :frowning:

Trouble I have here is what caused the fault in the first place. Solder joints from the OP all looked fine and we have to assume he soldered to the correct locations given that the modchip was working initially… even if he shorted out 1V8PDR or 3V3PDR to ground (worst case) then it shouldn’t (or maybe I should say wouldn’t typically) cause permanent damage like this (we have seen cases where 1V8PDR was near dead short and console is still able to boot and likewise cases where 3V3PDR is shorted and once the short is clear the board still works) which only leads me back to my thoughts on the modchip design flaw I mentioned, no level shifting register on the MCU itself to change the I/O LL and no dedicated circuitry on the “PCB” to do it, as such, ordinarily 1.8V IOis forced upto a 3.3V LL - which might not be a problem ordinarily given the shear speads of the EMMC protocol (not always high switching very fast during data r/w) but if the modchip has a bug / glitch and the I/O in question is stuck logic high and/or depending on the state of the I/O when no FW is flashed on the modchip and/or during an update… In which case (IO stuck high) I don’t see the rest of the Switch board tolerating it for long.especially the EMMC or SoC. For anyone reading this who is considering getting a modchip, be very cautious.

Let me know which measurements you would like again and il get right onto it so that we can make sure

The ones above :+1: :+1:

If your talking about these, then sorry you’ll have to figure this out, I could give you a few areas but the reality is the rail shows up everywhere and as I say I’m pretty sure you’d find yourself back at the SoC :frowning:

I can always try at least for educational purposes who ever reads this can see the areas. If you can provide me the areas and i can take readings

You are able to locate these all on your own :slight_smile: (Ideally you’d use a known good board but given your board this rail is a soft short you can use it in this case) put your meter in continuity, one probe on 1V8PDR (the side of the inductor pad with the 180 odd ohm short) and find the other locations (based on the beeps) by probing around the board (for example there is a 1V8PDR cap on the SoC) after you’ve found a few points, as mentioned, find a consistent ground throughout and measure the resistance to ground at the locations identified and see which one is the lowest.

absolutely :slight_smile: :+1:

Another way of doing it (if you meter has the capability) is put one probe on ground, and the other at the 1V8PDR inductor pad (side with the short) and zero out your meter (again assuming it has the capability) then you can go looking for the other locations of 1V8PDR and with your meter now zeroed, values hovering around the zero mark (for example you identified one of the locations at the tespoint just prior to the EMMC connector) - this is a good way to cheat some extra “resolution” on your meter and simplifies things, as your only interested in negative readings at that point (for example -01.40 ohm or -00.03 again, just examples) this is all just like that game we used to play as kids (I forget the name) but ya know, you hide the thing then say freezing cold, cold, warm, getting warmer, hot, scolding hot :smiley: